So, does the price mean concessions on quality? Answer in this article!

SimJack : the manufacturer

Before attacking (the brake pedal, lol), I have to tell you a little bit: So SimJack is a manufacturer that set up shop not so long ago. To tell you the truth, while talking with the boss, I even learned that they had read my article on load cell pedals before designing theirs. This company is young, it’s open minded: they agreed to share CAD files with me (which I obviously can’t share) so that I can develop mods, and eventually give them feedback. Comments, there were some (pedals, I’m starting to master a bit the subject). And obviously, they are planning to take them into account, so we’ll come back to that very soon.

The packaging: classic, simple, effective.

Let’s save our time: it arrived well, well packaged.

The assembly and the setting up.

First small negative point: the supplied screws (M6x10) are much too short. Of course it is impossible to provide screws that would fit everyone. But I don’t see what good it will do. Obviously I have everything I need in my drawers so it was quickly assembled.

For your information, the mounting brackets are 3mm thick, so if you have an 8mm plate like me, you’ll need something like M6x20.

For the parameter setting we use the Diview software…classic! However, for me it was the first time I used this software, and I admit I’m not a big fan… especially the calculation of the central value (which allows to adjust the response curves) is really tedious. We’ll come back to that too.

The control box is very compact and uses an STM32 chip with 16 bits of resolution: it’s classic, it works, it’s perfect. I designed a small clip that allows a clean mounting and the USB cable is long enough to fit in my USB hub.

Geometry adjustment.

The possible settings are many:

• start/end of travel
• pedal resistance
• preload
• relative position of the pedals in depth (14mm)
• height adjustment of the throttle plate (7,5mm)

What I found unfortunate was the lack of plate adjustments: it doesn’t cost anything to add a few screw locations to offer a little freedom.

Throttle pedal

As you probably already know, the Mini version implies relatively short pedals (from the axle to the top of the levers, we are at 156mm). And it’s actually on the throttle that this length is the most missing. So I cheated a bit and shifted the plate to get a satisfying length.

Moreover, the frame of these three pedals is particularly stiff, which allows a good precision in the setting and in the use. Moreover, the inversion of the plate does not bring any additional flexibility.

Finally, I found the spring a little too stiff, even when set to the softest position. The good news is that it is very easy to change it for a softer one.

On the other hand, I discovered that when I was adjusting this spring, the ball joint was in contact with another part in the highest position. It’s a bit of a pity, but if it doesn’t prevent it from working properly.

Brake pedal

The most interesting! The brake is mounted with a 100kg load cell. I have been asked a lot about the maximum force. I don’t have a measuring device at my disposal but I can tell you that even with both feet fully on the pedal I have a lot of trouble to saturate it. So it does the trick, even for the hardcore. Knowing that, by the way, a 200kg load cell divides the precision by 2…So going for a 100kg is the wise choice.

The feeling ? Hm… honestly ? Yes and no. As you know, since I created my hydraulic pedal, I’m over the moon. Here we just have a spring and an elastomer. By adjusting the preload, we can greatly reduce the impact of the spring. You can even remove it if you wish. So I will start by answering the following question:

Is it realistic : Not really. In fact it’s very simple: with only the elastomer (there is only one delivered): we find precisely the feeling of the hydraulic pedal: it is hard and it moves very little. With spring plus elastomer, we have clearly two resistance curves, with a very clear transition between the two. Not realistic at all. But! Effective…yes, it must be said: the break between the two curves gives a reference point and I must say that I have considerably improved my braking, especially on RF2 thanks to this reference point. Again, I don’t think it’s realistic (the braking feeling, not rf2…well, though…). If I were to push the vice further, I would remove the elastomer and use the mechanical stop to make an end of stroke marker. But that would be really dishonest.

Anyway, you can get anything you want for the feel. I especially like the fact that you only have one spring and one elastomer, which saves you from spending a thousand years adjusting your pedal. I just wish the spring was a bit stiffer so that the transition to the elastomer would be smoother. And once again, the chassis being rigid, and the electronics being good, the pedals are very precise in use, ideal for trail riding.

Clutch pedal

I was quite surprised to discover that the clutch pedal had no hard point, despite a different geometry than the gas pedal. You’re going to tell me if I’m right: if they don’t offer a hard point, they might as well use the same parts as the gas pedal and therefore offer a cheaper product? Tell me what you think in comments.

On the other hand, no particular problem for the clutch. The resistance is well calculated, and the height of the pedal did not bother me. Then the hard point in real life: who cares.

The future

Many of you have asked me if this pedals are PS/XBOX compatible. Unfortunately not, and I have to admit that compatible pedals on the market are rare. I’ve made SimJack aware of the problem and proposed the following solution: adapt their control box to connect it directly to the steering wheel bases (Logitech, Thrustmaster, Fanatec, Simucube etc…). In this case the pedals would be compatible with everything, and in addition we reduce the number of USB ports used! They thought it was a great idea and started to develop the so-called control boxes!

Conclusion

This pedalset is very good. You can find minor defects, but in use it is particularly efficient! As far as I’m concerned, its small size is its only flaw. The manufacturer is particularly attentive to the comments which we can make to him and should progress very quickly with products better and better adapted to our needs!

The price

The Mini is regularly found in the Simjack store around 320€.

To be notified of discounts, join my social networks:  Facebook, Discord.

The post SimJack mini : This is not a review ! appeared first on Lebois Racing.

To improve it, we can use an external 16-bit Analog to Digital converter like this one. It will convert the signal from the sensors into a number between 0 and 65535 (2^16). To give you a guide, Heusinkveld pedals use a 12 bit resolution (0-4095). The board then communicates with the Arduino using the I2C protocol.

You can connect 4 sensors on this card (3 pedals and a handbrake for example).

The other advantage of using this type of board is the fact that you can connect multiple I2C boards to the Arduino, using only two wires.

For example on the SRT box, we can connect to the I2C port the pedals and two button boxes without any problem.

Shopping list

• ADC 16 bits converter ADS1115 (Aliexpress)

The code is configured to work with the ADS1015 (12 bits) or the ADS1115 chip (16 bits). The ADS1015 is a little bit faster than the ADS1115.

Wiring

The card can be connected to the SRT gearbox PCB on the Button Box port:

The ADDR pin of the ADS115 can be connected directly to the GND pin of the PCB.

Code (from 2.6)

In the code, set the first boolean to “true” :

SRTPedals_ SRTPedals(1, //number of pedals
0, 0, 0, 0,//min
1023, 1023, 1023, 1023,//max
true,//isADS
false,//Led mod
0,1,2,3, //Led pins
&Joystick);

For more help, check this project.

The post 16 bits interface for pedals appeared first on Lebois Racing.

You want to support this project ? https://www.paypal.me/leboisVR?locale.x=en

Summary :

1. Presentation
2. Features
3. Shopping list
4. Assembly instructions

For info: I do not sell ANY PEDALS OR PRINTED PARTS. That would be trading, and I am not, and do not wish to be a trader. No need to ask. However, I am looking for a company that could produce plastic parts for those who do not own 3D printers. If you know of any…

1) PRESENTATION

The SRT GT accelerator pedal is a simple and compact pedal. Designed to be economical, it offers all the necessary settings to achieve the perfect driving position.

2) FEATURES

Angle can vary from -20° to 35° The starting position is tuned by a screw and a knob (no tool needed).
The end position is tuned by steps.

It measures 195mm from the axle to the top. You can add 55mm with this extension.

There is a preload for the metal torsion spring.
Pictures of v5.8 (thingiverse link):

3) SHOPPING LIST

ELECTRONICS :

1. 1 potentiometer 10k (axle diameter 6mm, axle length 10mm)
2. Cables 3cores 22awg (outer diameter is 4mm).

MECANICS :

1. 1 torsion spring
2. 0.3 kg PLA (Amazon)
3. 2 bearings KP001 12mm (Amazon, Aliexpress, Ebay) (Each SRT pedal requires two 12mm KP001)

Screws:

– 2 x M4x20mm Flat Head Countersunk and 2x m4 nuts (for the pedal plates, you can use 1 or 2 screws per plate… One is enough, but you can use two to be sure). This Amazon kit contains the two screws and many others that will be useful for other projects.

– 1 x M12x100 metal axle (Amazon, Aliexpress, Ebay)

4) ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

To be added soon.

The post SRT Accelerator pedal GT appeared first on Lebois Racing.

You want to support this project ? https://www.paypal.me/leboisVR?locale.x=en

Summary:

1. Presentation
2. Features
3. Shopping list
4. Assembly instructions

For info: I do not sell ANY PEDALS OR PRINTED PARTS. That would be trading, and I am not, and do not wish to be a trader. I don’t do black either. No need to ask. However, I am looking for a company that could produce plastic parts for those who do not own 3D printers. If you know of any…

1) Presentation

2) Features

You can tune the lever position by adjusting the bearings position.
There is a screw to add a preload on the master cylinder, so you can shorter the phase of the travel that is very soft.
I use a hydraulic pressure sensor. It acts like a potentiometer. You got only three wires : red (3.3V or 5V), black (ground), green (signal).

Regarding the support:
– Wood version will use wood screws to fix the support to the ground.
– M6 version will use M6 screws to fix the support to the ground.

The Rev2 modifies the system. More informations about the REV 2.

Here is the pictures of the brake pedal (v5.3) REV1:

And in Rev2 :

3) Shopping list

The updated shopping list is now online !

1. Hydraulic pressure sensor 500psi 1/8″ NPT (Amazon, Aliexpress, Ebay).If you push EXTREMELY hard you might consider using a 1000 psi sensor. I never exceeded 60%.
2. Cables 3cores 22awg (outer diameter is 4mm).

Mechanics:

1. Brake caliper : Single piston (A) (Amazon, Aliexpress, Ebay), Double pistons (B), 4 pistons (C)
2. Master cylinder : Willwood or OBP or Ali
3. 1kg PLA (Amazon)
4. 2 bearings KP001 12mm (Amazon, Aliexpress, Ebay) (Each SRT pedal requires two 12mm KP001)
5. 1 M8 rod end for Ali master cylinder, or this one for the Willwood and OBP. 
6. 1 Banjo M10x1.25 with pressure sensor mount (Ebay) (goes between the brake calipper and the pressure sensor).
7. 1 Banjo UNF 3/8-24UNF (Aliexpress, Ebay) that goes on the master cylinder.
8. 1 brake hose (Amazon, Aliexpress)
9. Joints

Screws :

– 1 x M5x50mm DIN912 for the preload (Aliexpress)

– 2 x M4x20mm Flat Head Countersunk and 2x m4 nuts. This Amazon kit contains the two screws and many others that will be useful for other projects.

– 3 xM8x35 : 2 for the master cylinder, 1 for the M8 rod end. (Aliexpress)

– 1 x M12x100 metal axle (Amazon, Aliexpress, Ebay)

How to choose the master cylinder ? A priori, there are many master cylinders compatible. The chinese model is the one that I have been using almost since the beginning, and it clearly does the job. Otherwise you can use other brands. Beside the dimensions, you need to mind foor numbers :

– Thread inlet : for the oil reservoir. If it’s not integrated, you need to find one.

– Thread outlet : This is where the banjo is installed, so it needs to match the banjo thread. The one advised above is 3/8″-24 UNF.

– Piston axle thread : it needs to be M8, because the rod is M8.

– Piston diameter : bigger = shorter stroke and harder resistance. The advised master cylinder is 0,7″.

4) Assembly instructions

1) Install the master cylinder in the master cylinder holder

• Use one M8x35mm bolt and M8 nut for each hole.
• The head of the lower bolt goes at the back.

2) Install the M8 rod end in the brake lever

3) Use one M8x35mm screw to secure the M8 rod end. It should tight into the plastic

4) Slide the M12 Axle into the brake lever

5) Slide the KP001 bearings to the M12 axle

6) Fix the KP001 bearings to the ground

7) Screw the master cylinder axle into the M8 rod.

8) Fix the master cylinder support to the ground.

9) Build the hydraulic system

(to be continued soon)

The post SRT brake pedal P1 v5.3 appeared first on Lebois Racing.

Table of contents

1. Logitech (G27, G29, G920)
2. Simucube 1
3. Simucube 2
4. Arduino
5. Leobodnar
6. Thrustmaster

The vast majority of pedal sets use potentiometers. As the accelerator is based on a potentiometer, and the hydraulic pressure sensor also behaves like a potentiometer, you can connect this pedal sets to most of the steering wheel bases (logitech, Simucube, Thrusmaster…).

Alternatively it can be connected to a Leobodnar or Arduino card which is then connected to the PC via a USB cable.

1) LOGITECH (G27, G29, G920…)

You can connect the SRT pedal set to a G27 or G29 steering wheel. To do so, use a VGA male connector with the following pins:

1 – Ground (0v)

2 – Accelerator

3 – Brake

4 – Clutch

5 –

6 – VCC (+5v)

7 –

8 –

9 – VCC (+5v)

2) SIMUCUBE 1

The pedals can be connected to the X11-upper port. See details on the Simucube documentation.

Pin 1 is the rightmost one. A RJ45 (8P8C) cable must be used.

1 – Brake

2 – Throttle

3 –

4 – VCC ( +3,3V)

5 – Clutch

6 –

7 –

8 – Ground (0V)

3) SIMUCUBE 2

There is a “SC accessory port” on which there are pins to connect pedals, it’s female vga db15.

See the documentation available here. You can use this type of male connector. The pins you are interested in :

2 – Ground (0V)

6 – Throttle

7 – Clutch

8 – VCC (5V)

13 – Brake

15 – Ground (0V)

4) ARDUINO

If you don’t want to plug the pedals into your steering wheel, using an arduino card is the cheapest solution. The following code allows you to manage from one to three pedals. It only works with Arduino Leonardo and Micro cards (fitted with ATmega32u4 CPU). The required libraries are included in the code.

Download

5) LEOBODNAR

This adapter allows you to connect the SRT pedals without having to manipulate a code. Indeed, Leobodnar provides an easy to use software that allows to calibrate the pedals.

I created a junction box: a male VGA connector on one side, and three output cables (diameter AWG22, it’s the one indicated in the pedals stroke list. There is an anti-tearing system that ensures reliable operation. The 3D files are on Thingiverse. The male connector can be ordered here on Amazon, or Aliexpress.

6) THRUSTMASTER

The Thrustmaster T-GT, T300, T150, TS-XW, TX and TMX steering wheels are connected to the pedal sets though an RJ12 6P6C (6-wire) cable. If you don’t know where the 1 is on your cable, look at the color codes on Google.

1 – Brake

2 – Throttle

3 – Clutch

4 – VCC ( +5v)

5 – Ground ( 0v)

6 – Ground ( 0v)

The post Interfaces for the pedals appeared first on Lebois Racing.