Lebois Racing is also the right address for good deals! Here’s a quick overview of the available promo codes not to be missed for the AliExpress Anniversary Sale (March 16–25, 2026)!

⚠️ Quantities are limited – be quick to grab your discount!

Official sale period: March 16–25, 2026

Main benefit: Up to 80% off worldwide, up to 90% off in the USA and Mexico, and up to 60% off in France.

Click on your country to jump to the dedicated promo codes:

• USA
• United Kingdom
• Germany
• Spain
• Brazil
• France
• Others

Promo Codes for USA

Validity: March 16, 2026 00:00 – March 25, 2026 23:59 (PST)

Benefits: Up to 90% off + extra event codes up to $100 off

Tip: New user codes available until March 31, 2026: NEWUS4OFF ($10-$4), NEWUS10OFF ($40-$10), NEWUS12OFF ($80-$12).

Promo Codes for United Kingdom

Validity: March 15, 2026 23:00 – March 25, 2026 22:59 (GMT)

Benefits: Up to 80% off

Tip: New user codes valid until April 9, 2026: AEUKNEW4 (£6-£4), AEUKNEW6 (£23-£6).

Promo Codes for Germany

Gültigkeit: 16. März 2026, 00:00 – 25. März 2026, 23:59 (deutsche Zeit)

Vorteile: Bis zu 80% Rabatt, kostenloser Versand

Promo Codes for Spain

Validez: 16 de marzo de 2026 00:00 – 25 de marzo de 2026 23:59 (hora local)

Beneficio: Hasta -80%

Promo Codes for Brazil

Validade: 16/03/2026 00:00 – 25/03/2026 23:59 (horário de Brasília)

Benefícios: Até 80% off, envio do Brasil e mais de R$1400 em cupons

Promo Codes for France

Validité : du 16 mars 2026 à 00h au 25 mars 2026 à 23h59 (heure française)

Avantage principal : Jusqu’à 60% de réduction

Others

More country-specific codes may also be available for regions such as the Netherlands, Poland, Ukraine, Italy, Portugal, Belgium, Sweden, Finland, Austria, Denmark, Switzerland, Ireland, Czech Republic, Canada, Mexico, Australia, Israel, Japan and Gulf countries.

If your country isn’t listed above, check AliExpress’s official landing page for your region to see the available Anniversary Sale coupons.

The post Aliexpress coupon codes – Updated Discounts ! appeared first on Lebois Racing.

I strongly advise you to install this mod once the gearbox is fully functional.

Summary

1. Shopping list
2. Place the buttons on the plate
3. Decorate the plate
4. The wiring
5. The functions
6. Settings
7. The calibration function

1) Shopping list

The button plate mod is compatible with the following buttons (the first two models were originally part of the main list).

• 12m button (Aliexpress)
• 12mm Low profile button (Aliexpress)
• Switch (Aliexpress)

You will then need wires, and dupont connectors, they are already present in the main shopping list.

2) Place the buttons on the plate

All the 3D files are available in this folder.

So you can choose exactly which buttons and their layouts. If you want to skip this step, use directly the “simple button mod plate”.

To customize the layout of the buttons, load the “custom button plate” and place the button beds in the square slots :

Open Cura, load the plate, center it (coordinates 0, 0, 0).

Then load as many elements as you want (you can load the same file as many times as you want), then place them by using the coordinates system where you want them to be. Here are the coordinates that you are most likely to use:

3) Decorate the plate

Once the buttons are placed, you can load Une fois vos boutons placés, you can add the decoration elements present in the “Decoration folder”. Then load as many items as you want (you can reload the same files several times), and using the coordinate system, place them as you wish. For example, you can place a hoop with coordinates (30;-10) :

You can place as many objects as you want, Cura will take care of merging them. For detailed objects (text, arch…) I advise you to print with the minimum resolution.

4) Wiring

The wiring is already indicated on the main schematic (indicated by an asterisk). Feel free to wire as you go along, as it is not easy to determine which button each wire comes from. Also respect the color coding: if you have a problem, the color coding allows you to easily check on the pictures if it comes from the wiring.

Try as much as possible to group cable pairs on double dupont connectors, this improves reliability.

5) The functions

EDIT: The list of functions may vary slightly depending on the code version. The list below is valid for versions up to RC6. From RC7, check the Config Center software for updated list.

Each button can perform a particular function which is listed below:

0 – disabled, the button does nothing. Perfect if the button isn’t wired.

1 – Simple button : reacts as any button. Example: ath, lcd, center VR view…

2 – ON/OFF button : One position correponds to ON, the other to OFF. Example : speed limiter

3 – calibration : allows you to reassign the gears of the gearbox, see explanations below.

4 – invert the gearbox : switches 1-2, 3-4, 5-6. Example : old Ferrari

5 – reset pin : resets the pins. Clears the calibration function configuration

6 – Up arrow

7 – Down arrow

8 – Righ arrow

9 – Left arrow

10 – Return

11 – Escape

12 – Enable or disable the handbrake

13 – enable or disable the clutch system

— The following functions requires at least V3.0 RC9 —

14 – Increase volume Unsupported with RC13

15 – Decrease volume Unsupported with RC13

16 – Key Windows

17 – Key Windows+y

18 – Key Alt + Tabulation

6) Settings

From version RC7 onwards, function assignment is done via the Button Plate tab of the Config Center software:

The grey squares turn green when a button is pressed.

7) The calibration function

The calibration function allows you to reassign gears on the fly.

Usage Scenario :

You have assigned your keys normally, the 1st in real life corresponds to the first gear in game (no matter where it is located in the grid).

However, you are in a car that does not follow a normal grid: the 1st in the car corresponds to the second in real life, the 2nd to the third, etc…

So you want the second one in real life to become the first one in the game. This is the role of the calibration function.

How to use it :

To reassign all the gears, without going back through the key assignments menu, press your calibration button, and change the gears in the order you want.

If we go back to the previous example, you will pass the second one in real time, then the third one in real time…. until you pass the 6th one in real time.

There, you’re going to tell me that we didn’t reassign the sixth gear (from a computer point of view). Two solutions:

1. You pass the first one in real: the first one in real will be the 6th one in game.
2. You press the calibration button again: the Arduino will automatically assign the missing gears to the remaining pins.

Please not that :

1. Reverse gear never changes place (it is linked to the mechanical configuration of the gearbox)
2. The calibration is erased if the arduino is unplugged, we will then return to the basic configuration with the first in real which corresponds to the first in game.
3. Throughout the calibration phase, the gears in play will not change.
4. The calibration is automatically completed when all 6 speeds have been assigned. At this point, shift to any gear and the gear will be changed in game.

The post Button Plate mod for SRT Gearbox V10 appeared first on Lebois Racing.

Running until the end of October. Users who purchase Pimax flagship products — Crystal Light or Crystal Super (50 PPD / 57 PPD / Ultrawide) — will receive a free high-value VR accessory or flight simulation add-on package, greatly enhancing their immersive experience.

How to Participate:

🎁 How to join:

1️⃣ Visit the event page:
👉 https://pimax.com/pages/fall-into-immersion-deals/?ref=leboisracing
2️⃣ Choose your headset:

• 🧊 Pimax Crystal Light → https://pimax.com/products/pimax-crystal-light/?ref=leboisracing
• 💎 Pimax Crystal Super → https://pimax.com/products/pimax-crystal-super//?ref=leboisracing
  3️⃣ Add both the headset and your chosen gift to the cart.
  4️⃣ Enter promo code FALL at checkout to claim your gift for free.
  5️⃣ After confirmation, a Pimax rep will send you your gift redemption code within 24 hours. 🎫

⚠️ Note: Gifts are limited and available first-come, first-served.
⏰ Event ends October 31st, so don’t miss out!

👉 Full details: https://pimax.com/pages/fall-into-immersion-deals/?ref=leboisracing

The post Pimax “Fall Into Immersion” Event is Live: Claim Free VR Accessories & Add-Ons! appeared first on Lebois Racing.

The Pimax Super is the latest headset in the third generation of Pimax headsets, the Crystal. First came the Crystal Original, which notably featured a battery, which I tested on the channel. Then recently came the Crystal Light, which has the same specifications as the Crystal Original, but with a simpler design: no eyetracking, no battery.

The Crystal Super offers incredible resolution, 4K per eye! Plus, all the technologies Pimax has mastered, like eyetracking. For comparison, the Quest 3 is 2064×2208 and the Bigscreen Beyond 2 is 2560×2560.

So the question is: have they gone too far with this headset? Or is this the long-awaited culmination for us Sim Racers?

I should point out that Pimax sent me the Pimax Super and the Pimax Light free of charge. You can use the affiliate link below if you want to support me and enjoy a 3% discount with the code lebois3. The Pimax Light review will be out soon, so subscribe! I’ll also be posting a comparison of the two headsets.

Conception and Design

The first piece of good news is that Pimax didn’t just rehash the Pimax Light’s casing. We have a new casing, which is better finished, and above all more compact! This is quite surprising when you consider the number of features this headset has. The design is quite understated, and the color of the V on the front is customizable. We have the feeling of dealing with a premium product.

It’s not the most compact headset, but spec-wise it’s perfectly acceptable. The headset’s position is adjusted using the top strap and the dial on the back of the headset.

Foam covers all parts that come into contact with the head.

There are three buttons. Two of these buttons are used to adjust the volume or confirm choices while in the headset interface. The third is used to put the headset into standby mode.

Weight-wise, we’re at 900g. Again, this is in line with the technical specifications.

Confort 

Comfort is a significant improvement over previous headsets. The headset is lighter than the original Crystal, and the more compact shape allows for better weight distribution. The foam is effective, and you can complete laps without fatigue.

Furthermore, the fit is very good. I used this headset a lot while standing up in Arizona Sunshine, a shooter where you constantly move your head, and I wasn’t bothered by the headset’s movements. Obviously, a lighter headset will probably move less, but that’s not a problem.

The same goes for using a motion simulator. The headset moves little. In fact, when the simulator moves a lot, the headset is more comfortable than the screen. In fact, the screen is comparatively more affected by movement on my simulator than the headset.

Negative: you have to loosen the strap every time you want to remove the headset to see around you. So you lose the adjustment and have to find it again each time.

Also, the cable, which is quite thick, is not designed to go directly to the left, but rather to the right. A symmetrical configuration would have been more comfortable.

The headset has a “Pass-through” mode: by tapping the top right edge of the headset, the headset displays the image captured by a front camera: this allows you to retrieve objects around you without removing the headset. On the other hand, the image is in black and white and 2D, when the competition offers 3D generation in color… it needs to be improved.

Space tracking

The headset uses Inside-Out technology to track the user’s and controllers’ position in space. It is based on four cameras that use the environment to determine positioning.

It’s a proven technology and obviously works very well here. It should also be possible in the future to change the front panel to use Lighthouse technology, which uses external bases. I think it’s a good thing to have the choice here, because inside-out tracking will always be less efficient than Lighthouse tracking. Inside-out tracking is particularly limited for tracking controllers, which can easily end up outside the camera’s field of view and therefore not be tracked. This is the case, for example, in a standing game like Arizona Sunshine, where when I look up, the headset won’t follow the controller, which will look for a weapon at leg level.

Eye tracking 

The headset incorporates an eye-tracking solution that works perfectly. In addition to tracking pupil position instantly, it’s powerful enough to not require calibration each time the user changes.

Specifically, eye tracking is used to automatically adjust the IPD (inter-eye distance). I’ve never experienced such precise and comfortable adjustments; it’s truly very comfortable to use. The headset also uses this sensor to indicate to the user whether the headset’s position is ideal. Finally, eye tracking allows for graphical optimizations, which we’ll discuss later.

Logiciel 

To use the Crystal Super, simply install the Pimax Play driver. I didn’t have any trouble connecting the headset. I switched seamlessly from Crystal Super to Crystal Light. The software offers many options, whether for adjusting colorimetry, enabling or disabling features, or configuring games.

The software notably offers the use of the PimaxXR API. The API is the software layer between the game and the VR headset. You can choose between SteamVR, which isn’t highly optimized but is the most stable; OpenXR, which is highly configurable; and PimaxXR, which is the solution I recommend because it’s both optimized and simple. That said, there are still a few bugs to fix. For example, when launching Arizona Sunshine using PiMaxXR instead of SteamVR, the headset’s microphone is no longer recognized in-game. But this unlocks other features, which we’ll discuss later.

You can also adjust the graphics settings for each simulation, which is handy. However, you can’t necessarily launch all the games from Pimax Play. Sometimes it will launch the non-VR version, sometimes it won’t launch anything at all, so there’s still a bit of work to be done there.

There is also an interface in the headset, accessible from the controllers which allows access to very practical features such as choosing the sound device, accessing windows like discord, without leaving the game, etc. It is not yet very ergonomic, but it is practical.

Picture quality

We come to the crux of the matter… the image. 4K per eye… It’s huge, it’s close to the human eye. This allows for a sharper image than when playing on a 4K screen. It’s particularly impressive when looking at the steering wheel, on which you can no longer see a single pixel. Unfortunately, from a distance, for the moment it’s very difficult to run the headset at resolutions that allow the image to avoid pixelation, which isn’t necessarily pleasant. That being said, it’s when you switch back to Pimax Light (2880×2880) and realize that you can no longer see the apexes that you realize the difference in resolution.

The colors are vibrant, with very strong contrasts; there’s nothing to complain about there. However, there is indeed a mura effect (a washed-out window effect) present. It’s only visible when you stop and focus on it. It’s particularly noticeable on bright, uniform areas like clouds. But for our sim racing use, it’s really a minor inconvenience.

Otherwise, I wasn’t bothered by the lenses. I should point out that my headset comes with the intermediate FOV (field of view) of 127°, and 50 pixels per degree… and that seems like a good compromise. I find it easy to get used to. The Crystal Super is available with 120, 127, and 140° fields of view. But be careful! The wider the field of view, the more graphics you’ll need. In this case, the Super 50ppd/127° is already offered in two fields of view via the software, and I almost exclusively use the low FOV to gain more fps (frames per second).

You’re also wondering which field of view to choose when ordering: 50ppd, 57ppd, or UW. It’s a difficult question, especially since I haven’t tested the ultrawide. First of all, you should know that Pimax managed to offer the UW with the same sharpness as the 50ppd (intermediate FOV). So, there’s no point in getting the 50ppd. The question is between the 57ppd and the UW.

Also, it’s worth noting that the headset’s sweet spot isn’t huge, but the overall sharpness is so high that you don’t notice it. Furthermore, eye tracking allows the headset to tell you if it’s positioned incorrectly, so you’re generally always in the ideal position.

Graphics consumption.

With such a resolution, the question of minimum configuration arises. I conducted all my tests with a 5090 and an i7-14700kf (configuration details in the description). The Pimax Play software offers several graphics optimization solutions. There are NVIDIA NIS and AMD FSR solutions, as well as a proprietary sharpening filter. These solutions don’t provide any more gain than on conventional monitors; that is, beyond a 3%/5% gain in FPS, image degradation becomes visible.

Next comes DFR (dynamic foveated rendering), and especially Quadview. DFR involves degrading the resolution where the eye isn’t looking. Quadview is the same principle but visibly much more advanced because the gains are nothing like that.

But there’s a catch. A big one. Quadview is currently only supported by iRacing and DCS. The gain is enormous. I don’t have a specific figure to give, but iRacing is clearly the only car simulation where you can fully utilize all the options and fully appreciate the headset’s capabilities. Pimax has invested heavily in Lemans Ultimate, so we hope this simulation will be compatible in the future. That being said, there’s no news yet, and clearly, you shouldn’t count on it if you have a weak graphics card.

Other simulators take DFR into account, but for gains that I consider minimal, since the degradation quickly becomes visible if you want to gain significant FPS. Indeed, even if your eye isn’t looking where the resolution is degraded, you can still see flickering where you’re not looking.

So, aside from Iracing, on other simulations, eye tracking doesn’t save the headset, and we end up having to find a difficult compromise between fluidity and sharpness.

I want to emphasize that I’ve spent many hours testing, followed many tutorials, and haven’t found anything miraculous. I know some will tell me that by using OpenXR, modifying files, etc., they achieve something perfect. I don’t really believe it. And even if it were true, personally, I prefer the most stable solutions over time, which don’t depend on modifications to game files or the NVIDIA driver.

To conclude, with a 5090, you can run the headset fairly smoothly. In my opinion, with a 5070/5080, you can still run the headset, but I don’t really see the point.

To give you an idea: I find the Pimax Light’s image more pleasing than the Super’s at the moment. The image is blurrier, but much less pixelated. However, the Super is future-proof, as we know we’ll get more out of it with each new generation of graphics card.

In terms of fluidity, the software offers a 75Hz and 90Hz setting. You should select 75Hz if you plan to run the headset around this refresh rate; the fluidity will be better than with 90Hz. Personally, I’m quite sensitive to fluidity, and 90Hz, while perfectly in line with the market, is the minimum.

Sound

My headset came with the standard audio solution. It’s acceptable, but not crazy. At least it’s compact, and the sound isn’t unpleasant. Pimax also offers a more premium solution, the Deluxe Audio Strap, which mounts in place of the standard earbuds.

In my opinion, you can greatly improve the sound experience simply by using good headphones.

Controllers

The controllers are the same as those of the original Crystal Light: they are lightweight and well-finished.

They are equipped with built-in batteries that are recharged via the included USB cable. Battery life is excellent, with over ten hours of playtime.

The ergonomics are decent, although we would have appreciated more resistance to the trigger.

The tracking is satisfactory but doesn’t match Lighthouse tracking. It’s also quite curious to find several options for controller tracking, and I found that in-game they lack a bit of precision. We’ll see if it improves over time.

Motion Compensation 

The Pimax Play software currently offers only one motion compensation solution: the function that tells the headset not to move when the user moves with the simulator. The solution is to use a controller as a reference point. You need to attach it using my mount, for example. It works very well.

Depending on the motion software you’re using, as well as the API, you may have access to other solutions.

But clearly the best solution remains to disable motion tracking: you keep the rotation, and there will be no interference from the simulator. In a racing car, you’re not supposed to be able to move anyway.

I certainly hope they integrate motion compensation, for example, using a WitMotion sensor. Personally, I didn’t want to attach a controller to my simulator simply because I also use it for standing games, and it’s quite tedious to install and remove it every time.

Reliability

With such advanced technology, one might wonder if the headset is up to scratch, and if it’s durable, before shelling out the big bucks to buy it.

Connection-wise, I haven’t had any issues. I regularly switch from light to super, and each time, the headset is detected after about twenty seconds.

The software isn’t perfect, but in any case, we haven’t encountered any problems with headset detection by SteamVR or anything else.

I use a motion simulator and a tensioner, which generally cause interference, and it seems that my Fanatec direct drive also causes enough interference to disconnect my old pedalboard. And so far, I haven’t experienced any black screens with the headset, even temporary. It’s clearly a “plug and play” situation.

Furthermore, several components, such as the strap and cable, have been used since the 5k+/8KX generation, so I think the headset should be very durable over time.

I’d like to point out that before sending me this headset, I warned Pimax that I would not tolerate any defects, and I understand why they didn’t hesitate: the headset does indeed have no hardware or software defects.

Price and conclusion 

Obviously, such specifications don’t come without a high retail price. The headset costs around €1,800 in France. It’s worth noting that half the price is payable upon ordering, and the other half is due within 15 days of receipt if you’re satisfied with the headset. Otherwise, the headset will be deactivated, and you’ll have to return it to Pimax for a refund.

So, should you open your wallet for the headset with the best resolution in the world? Yes, if you have a 5090, or are thinking of getting one, and especially if you plan to upgrade to a 6090 when it’s released. Because yes, there’s no point in buying a Rolls-Royce without having the gas to put in it. If your PC holds up, there’s a good chance you’ll get a shock the first time. Then a second when you upgrade to a 6090, then a third when you upgrade to a 7090… (yes, you shouldn’t upgrade cards too quickly, it can hurt). This is truly the headset’s strength: it’s built to last, whereas many current headsets can’t.

If your build is below a 5080, wait until I get my hands on a 5070, and I’ll tell you if it’s worth it or not.

This headset isn’t without its flaws. Despite its high retail price, there are a few aspects that are disappointing (the sound, the pass-through mode). However, I believe the image quality offered makes it the best Sim Racing headset today. And probably for a long time to come.

The post Pimax Super: The best headset for Sim Racing appeared first on Lebois Racing.

• No Turn fix: the upper bearing lip (highlighted in blue on the image) had been missing since the last update (LHD only). If your gearbox is already printed, you can replace this lip with an M5 washer.

• Seq holder RHD: a small piece of plastic was sticking out.
• Body2 get rid of a feature that was canceled below the carriage
• Major cleanup work on my side to remove duplicate functions, fix errors, and completely reorganize the source files in order to… archive this project.

Yes, indeed, we’re reaching the end of the road for the V10. The 3D part is finalized. There are still a few improvements to make on the firmware, but the project has finally reached maturity. That doesn’t really show in this update, but cleaning up all the files takes a huge amount of time—and it’s a necessity for the future.

I can already hear some saying that the end of V10 means the beginning of V11. Not really. There are too many ongoing projects right now to start developing a V11, and I don’t yet have enough ideas to justify one. Well… I might have a lead… but that’s something we’ll have to discuss together.

Meanwhile, I’ve mainly made progress on two projects:

1. Competition Control Box: added support for the 6th actuator, and a complete code overhaul to allow configuring the control box directly through the Arduino IDE serial monitor. Basically, we’ll be able to communicate with the box just like with the driver:
   • Send P to display the parameters menu (set max travel, margins, connected motors)

• • Send F to display the functions menu (calibrate, test, etc.)Send
• • D to display all saved parameters

It might sound a bit abstract, but the code is structured so that at every step, the user is guided with clear instructions on what each command does.

2) GT Tensioner: I’m continuing the first driver tests. At first glance, the P1 will still remain more refined (more responsive/accurate/silent). I hope the GT V4 will be ready by December.

As usual, the 3D files are available here for PRO contributors:
👉 https://lebois-racing.com/exclusive-files-for-pro-and-elite-patreons/

The post SRT Gearbox : August Update and news appeared first on Lebois Racing.

Sim racing has grown massively in popularity, offering an incredibly immersive way to experience motorsports from home. Whether you’re just starting out or looking to upgrade to a more serious setup, choosing the right gear can be overwhelming. With so many wheels, pedals, cockpits, and displays available at various price points, it’s important to know what suits your budget and racing goals.

This guide breaks down the essential components of sim racing rigs into three budget tiers — Beginner ($400), Intermediate ($1,500), and Mid-to-High End (~$4,500) — so you can find the right balance between performance, immersion, and cost. We’ll look at wheels, pedals, mounting solutions, and displays tailored for each level to help you build a rig that feels just right for you.

Beginner Tier (~$400)

Ideal for: Casual sim racers, newcomers who want a solid introduction without heavy investment.

Wheel & Wheelbase

Logitech G920/G29 ($300/$330)
These all-in-one steering wheel and wheelbase combos provide great value for beginners. Both models deliver force feedback and feature quality materials like genuine leather and steel center plates. The main difference is platform compatibility: the G920 supports Xbox and PC, while the G29 is for PlayStation and PC. Internally, they perform identically, offering consistent on-track feedback and solid reliability.

Mounting Solution

GTPLAYER Sim Racing Wheel Stand ($60–90)
A compact and foldable wheel stand compatible with many wheels. It’s well-rated in the racing community as a budget-friendly solution, perfect for those without room for a full cockpit. While not as rigid as more expensive setups, it provides a stable base for entry-level wheels.

Pedals

Included with the wheel — suitable for beginners learning throttle, brake, and clutch control.

Display

VR Option

Meta Quest 3s (~$300)

VR brings an immersive perspective to sim racing, placing you directly inside a virtual cockpit with a true sense of scale and depth. Compared to traditional monitors, it makes it easier to judge corners, braking points, and how the car is moving beneath you. Even an entry-level headset can transform sim racing from simply watching a screen into feeling like you’re really in the driver’s seat. A popular entry-level VR headset that’s easy to set up and can be used wirelessly or tethered to a PC. While not designed specifically for sim racing, it’s a very affordable way to get started with VR immersion. The resolution and optics are decent for casual use, though resolution and fine detail are more limited compared to dedicated PC VR headsets.

Monitor Option

27″ or 32″ 1080p / 144Hz 32″

If you prefer monitors over VR, a single 27″ or 32″ 1080p screen is a popular and affordable choice. A 60Hz 27″ monitor is the most budget-friendly option to get started, while upgrading to a 144Hz 32″ display improves smoothness and responsiveness for a better sense of speed and control.

Intermediate Tier (~$1,500)

Ideal for: Sim racers wanting a more immersive and precise experience without the complexity of top-tier setups.

Wheel & Wheelbase

Moza R5 Bundle ($439)
The Moza R5 is a significant upgrade from entry-level gear, featuring a direct drive motor that offers smoother, stronger, and more detailed force feedback. It supports swappable wheels, allowing customization as you grow. Though it comes with a steeper price and requires PC compatibility, it’s a solid step for racers seeking realism.

Mounting Solution

Playseat Challenge Racing Simulator Cockpit (~$180)
This foldable cockpit is popular for handling direct drive wheels like the Moza R5. Its frame braces against your body weight, helping counter torque and providing greater stability than basic stands. It’s compact and easy to store, though some flex under heavy force feedback is expected.

Pedals

Included with the wheel — often more responsive than beginner pedals, but still integrated in the bundle.

Display

VR Option

Pimax Crystal Light ($887)
Ideal for intermediate sim racing setups, the Crystal Light offers a clear, immersive VR experience without the need for an expensive triple-monitor rig. It’s a good fit for racers who want strong visual clarity and depth without the added space, cost, or complexity of large displays. A practical upgrade for those looking to deepen immersion while staying budget-aware. For many, it strikes the best balance between clarity, comfort, and cost.

Bigscreen Beyond (~$1,019)

An ultra-compact PCVR headset with excellent clarity and very lightweight design. It’s well-suited for seated experiences and long sessions thanks to its comfort, though it requires precise fitment and can feel less versatile outside cockpit sims. While image sharpness is strong, the field of view and overall brightness may be more constrained compared to other options in this price range.

Monitor Option

144Hz 2K (1440p) 32″ / triple 32″ 1080p

At this level, many racers step up to higher resolution or multi-monitor setups. A single 144Hz 2K (1440p) 32″ monitor offers excellent clarity and fluid motion without taking up too much space. Alternatively, a triple 32″ 1080p configuration provides a wide field of view that improves peripheral awareness and immersion, making it easier to spot cars and apexes without head-tracking.

Mid-to-High End Tier (~$4,500)

Ideal for: Serious sim racers seeking professional-grade gear with exceptional precision and immersion.

Wheel & Wheelbase

Fanatec Podium DD1 ($1,000) + Fanatec Podium Series Wheel (~$200)
One of the biggest factors that transforms sim racing from just playing a game into an experience that genuinely feels like driving a real car is the wheel base you choose. Entry-level wheel bases provide some feedback, but it’s often weak and not very precise. A quality direct drive wheel base delivers strong, accurate force feedback that lets you feel the car’s handling, road texture, and when your tires are gripping or sliding. This tactile information is essential for building skill and immersion, and is why so many racers consider a good wheel base the centerpiece of their rig.

The Podium DD1 offers powerful and precise direct drive force feedback tailored for competitive sim racing. Its smooth torque and reliability make it perfect for high-end setups. Paired with Podium Series wheels, it delivers professional-grade control with durable build quality and ergonomic design.

Mounting Solution

P1X Pro Simracing Cockpit ($849)
A rigid, fully adjustable aluminum profile frame built to withstand the strong torque of direct drive wheels like the Podium DD1. Its modular design allows customization and expansion, ensuring minimal flex and a stable foundation that enhances immersion and precision during intense racing.

Pedals

Fanatec ClubSport V3 ($430)
Featuring precision load cell braking and robust construction, these pedals provide realistic pedal feel essential for fine throttle and brake control. Their adjustability and durability make them a reliable choice for demanding racers, striking a great balance between performance and value.

Display

VR Option

Pimax Crystal Super ($1,735)
This ultra-premium VR headset offers elite immersion and visual clarity, making it a top alternative to high-end multi-monitor rigs. It’s ideal for racers seeking maximum focus and realism without the space or cost constraints of ultra-wide or triple-screen setups.

Monitor Option

Samsung 49” Odyssey G9 Gaming Monitor ($1399.99)

For serious immersion, the Samsung G9 ultra-wide is a top-tier single monitor solution, delivering a massive curved display that effectively wraps around your field of vision. Another popular high-end choice is a triple 32″ 2K (1440p) monitor setup, which combines expansive horizontal coverage with sharp resolution.

Side Note: PC Requirements

While this guide focuses mainly on wheels, displays, and cockpits, you’ll also need a gaming PC capable of running your chosen setup smoothly. Here are baseline recommendations for each tier:

Beginner Tier PC Recommendation

For entry-level racing on a single 1080p monitor or basic VR:

• CPU: Intel i5 11th Gen / AMD Ryzen 5 3600 or newer
• GPU: NVIDIA GTX 1660 Super or RTX 2060
• RAM: 16GB
• Storage: 500GB SSD

This level can handle most sim racing titles at medium settings and moderate frame rates.

Intermediate Tier PC Recommendation

For higher refresh rate 2K monitors, triple 1080p displays, or headsets like the Crystal Light:

• CPU: Intel i7 12th Gen / AMD Ryzen 7 5800X
• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3070 or better
• RAM: 32GB
• Storage: 1TB SSD

This spec is well-suited for smooth VR performance and higher graphic settings.

Mid-to-High End Tier PC Recommendation

For triple 2K monitors or demanding VR headsets like the Crystal Super:

• CPU: Intel i9 13th Gen / AMD Ryzen 9 7950X
• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 4090
• RAM: 32–64GB
• Storage: 2TB NVMe SSD

This level ensures maximum visual fidelity and consistent frame rates even in the most demanding scenarios.

Conclusion

Choosing the right sim racing gear depends largely on your budget, space, and how serious you want to get. Beginners can enjoy solid performance and comfort without overspending, while intermediate racers gain immersive force feedback and VR without the complexity or cost of pro-level rigs. For enthusiasts chasing realism and precision, mid-to-high end setups with direct drive wheels, professional pedals, sturdy cockpits, and premium VR displays provide a fully immersive racing experience that can compete with real-world driving.

No matter your level, investing in quality gear that fits your needs will enhance your enjoyment and help you improve on the virtual track. Take your time, plan your build, and most importantly—have fun racing!

The post Racing Sim Rig Setups at Different Budget Levels appeared first on Lebois Racing.

The long-awaited new PCB is here! It brings several changes. The most important is the replacement of the Texas Instruments sensors with classic A3144s…yes, the same ones as in V9. It was the TI sensors that were causing a latency issue. This is now resolved. The only slight drawback is that the magnet must be oriented the right way. But unlike V9, we have our own little LEDs to check the orientation, so it’s not a deal breaker either.

Furthermore, I disabled the Arduino pins that aren’t needed for the gearbox’s operation (3.3V pin, Aref pin, etc.). This avoids unnecessary soldering and potentially damaging the PCB. I also optimized the routing to prevent it from passing near the pins that need to be soldered.

The chip that detects and measures the current has been replaced with a faster model. Okay. For now, it’s useless.

Finally, I replaced the 3-pin connector of the sequential board with a 2-pin one.

This new PCB requires new firmware, which will be released soon.

The PCB is available in limited quantities on the store. Industry&CNC will soon offer it for purchase as part of the kit.

3D fixes

On the 3D side, the update is minor and will only be of interest to those who have not yet printed the parts:

1. Fixed a minor error on Body2 RHD
2. Fixed the RHD and non-RHD servo mounts so that the screws are better positioned relative to the motor.

Changing the sequential feeling

The new long stroke for the sequential is very satisfying. However, I don’t intend to stop there. So I installed magnets in body2 as opposed to magnets in the carriage to achieve a harder end stroke and further improve the feel of the sequential.

It’s a failure. There you have it… In fact, the magnets are very weak compared to the force applied, and after testing it numerous times with and without the magnets, I didn’t feel any difference… But hey, it proves there’s still room for improvement!

What’s next?

As you already know, I’ll never stop improving this V10. I always have ideas for further development. I’m thinking a lot about the PRO version right now. It’s possible that the next developments will be preparations for this version…

There are also many new features in the pipeline for the various other projects… I just need to find the time.

The post SRT Gearbox : April update appeared first on Lebois Racing.

…

Not at all…

Come on, let’s get to it with a nice clean log that no one will say boooouuuuu it’s not clear

Update of the sequential

The main subject of this update is the sequential. We keep the idea of ​​the previous update: a single switch, and a longer stroke. On the other hand, we change the switch, we need these roller switches which are bigger (and are therefore more tolerant to printing deviations):
https://amzn.to/4hfz1eg

(if you place an order on the store, I can give you one… )

I’ll see next week to modify the shopping list on the Industry&CNC side.

So, new Body2, new Seq Holder. By the way, I cleared a little space for the tracks on the carriage… just in case… But it’s not necessary to modify it. And new Slider and Slider cover. The tracks remain the same. I also added stops on the slider to prevent us from going too far in sequential mod. I do not guarantee that it is perfect but as it is I find that the sequential has never progressed so much!

By the way, on Body2, there is a very small correction: visibly on my gearbox, the M5x50 of Turn touched a little…

So I added a chamfer at this location.

Eclutch

Then on the Eclutch side: I corrected the shopping list: the din7991 M3x10 is useless… and I added a diagram with where which screw goes.

And I took the opportunity to initiate what must be initiated: several behaviors for the eclutch. Well for the moment it is basic:

C1: we press the clutch to unlock the box.

C2: release the accel to unlock the box

C3: the box is only blocked in neutral and we act on the clutch to release it.

If some want to work on more advanced behaviors, they can share them in comments on the doc page!

On the Body1 side, I raised the reverse gear screw a little so as not to have to twist the screw… too much. There are many differences from one assembly to another… I will see in the future if it is necessary to raise it even more.

The rest

For information, the solution to solve the latency problem will be presented soon.

The post SRT Gearbox : March update ! appeared first on Lebois Racing.

The idea is to use the hall sensors to capture the gear change in sequential. We keep only one of the mechanical micro switches, which is only there to know the mod of the box (h or seq).

I remind you that the files that change are:

• body2
• slider
• slider cover
• seq track v2
• seq holder

It is possible to test the update without changing body2, but body2 will limit the travel a little… If you just want to test the feeling, you can:

1. remove seq holder
2. update only the slider, slider cover, track seq.
3. mount the new slider

Of course you won’t have the functional electronic part but it can allow you to see if the update interests you. If anything, without flashing the new code, and without putting the seq holder back, you can reassign 3 and 4 in play to the seq gear change, and test…

Ok if we want to update everything, we print everything. What changes in terms of assembly is that there is only one switch on the seq holder. On the wiring side, you can wire the switch on any pin for the sequential. In other words: you just remove one switch on the two:

Code-wise, you have to use RC2.

And that’s it.

I’m leaving the previous version online. I hope for as much feedback as possible to know whether to continue in this new direction or not.

The post How to apply the January update for SRT V10 appeared first on Lebois Racing.

The packaging: classic, simple, efficient.

Let’s save our time: it arrived quickly (8 days after shipping), well packaged, not damaged. Next.

Let’s note in passing: many people ask me questions about customs fees: for some time now, Aliexpress has been collecting the VAT when ordering, making it unnecessary to go through customs. However, some carriers may re-invoice the VAT. Don’t panic: once you have paid the carrier (twice therefore…), you contact Aliexpress with an invoice and proof of payment and they will reimburse you.

Assembly and configuration.

The pedalset is delivered without a plate, as is often the case (but they offer a very good one). You will have no trouble mounting it on Heusinkveld plates, or even directly on profiles, even if you have to order a simple steel plate to rest the feet.

The pedalset is delivered with M6 screws for assembly which is not very long.

The configuration is provided by DiView. It is simple, not ultra user-friendly but we have access to the essentials: min and max adjustment. We can also make the curve non-linear.

The pedalset is delivered with a metal control box which alone answers our question: SimJack has put the means where we need them:

Indeed, to find a control box of this good quality, you will really have to aim for the top of the range! You will ask me: a metal control box, what is it for? Well, the problem with load cell pedals is sensitivity to EMI. Understand the problem: a load cell is a sensor that captures voltage differences of the order of mV (one thousandth of a Volt), when you can have motors (flywheel, cylinders, etc.) that operate at 24V/48V at high amperages next to it. These components therefore have no problem disturbing the load cell signal, this is what we call EMI (electromagnetic interference). We do not encounter this problem with hydraulic pedals for example because the sensors operate on wider ranges, between 0V and 5V in general. The use of a metal box acts as a Faraday cage and reduces the disturbances. I can therefore use my many actuators without disturbing the signal coming from the pedals: a must!

Adjusting the geometry.

There are many possible settings:

• start/end of travel
• pedal resistance
• preload
• relative position of the pedals in depth
• height adjustment of the accelerator plate

The axles are machined with an imprint that allows them to be blocked in the end joints: so the settings do not move. It’s perfect.

Accelerator pedal

Let’s start with the most exciting: the accelerator. Obviously not much to say. The size of the plate is appreciable. The force of the spring seems balanced to me.

It uses a 20kg Load Cell.

Brake pedal

I don’t have much to say about the brake pedal: it’s sturdy, it doesn’t move. On the other hand, we would have appreciated not having only one type of elastomer or spring… it’s easy to correct and we already have a lot of different solutions. As for me, I applied a strong pre-stress and removed an elastomer to be more quickly in the very hard.

The brake uses a 200kg load cell… it’s a bit too much but it works, especially because the control box is of excellent quality.

On the brake and clutch the plate is curved and comfortable.

Clutch pedal

The clutch pedal has a hard point. As for me, this is not a feature to which I attach much importance, especially since it makes the adjustment of the geometry more delicate in order to “position” the hard point. But otherwise the pedal is perfectly designed.

Conclusion

We can already answer our question: this SimJack pedal is a BANGER!!! You really have to be very picky to find faults with it, and the price is just mind-boggling. You will not gain in performance by looking for another brand, that’s for sure. It plays neck and neck with the Simsonn which offers more spring in the basic kit.

SimJack Pedals

The faultless?

Ideal if you are looking for a reliable, simple, efficient crankset.

Check the price on Aliexpress The video review

The post SimJack Load Cell Pedals: The Test (long term) appeared first on Lebois Racing.