The stand consists of two parts, sandwiching the keyboard. Both parts use M5 screws.

Need support for another keyboard? Don’t hesitate to contact me!

The post Rii K18 keyboard stand appeared first on Lebois Racing.

The V2 offers torque gains thanks to a smaller diameter spool. The housing is now total for greater safety.

Summary:

1. Presentation
2. Caracteristics
3. Shopping list
4. Control Box
5. 3D files
6. Driver wiring
7. Driver settings
8. Arduino code and FlyPT profile
9. Assembly
10. Additional adjustements

1) Presentation

What is surprising is the absence of latency and the strength, we even feel the kerbs!

The harness tensioner consists of a harness (4 or 5 points), an servo motor, and an arduino board connected to FlyPT.

The system is precise and reactive, it engages immediately, and we feel the difference of braking between a F1 and a basic car, we also feel the activation of the ABS. It’s the most satisfying solution to feel the G forces in Sim Racing.

This system may not allow to adjust the braking. However, we feel a direct link between the pressure applied on the pedal and the tightening of the belt.

2) Caracteristics

The motor pulls on a cable that wraps around a reel. The cable pulls the belt backwards, which gives the impression of being thrown forward.

There is a casing that is mounted around the reel for safety.

3) Shopping list

Industry&CNC offer a kit (fast shipping, slow shipping) that includes :

1. 1 x 80st-M02430 servo motor with a AASD15a driver and shielded cables
2. 1 x 80st mounting bracket
3. 1 x GX12 4 pin connector
4. 1 x Câble 4 fils, 22AWG
5. 1 x Shaft coupler
6. 1 x bicycle brake cable

It remains then to order :

1. Arduino Due (Amazon, I haven’t tested a clone).
2. A 4 points seat belt (I tested 5 points, but as a man, I didn’t find it pleasant, you know what I mean?)  (Aliexpress).
3. 0.5kg of pla to print the drum.
4. 2 x DIN912 M6x30mm
5. 6 x DIN7991 M6x30mm with nuts
6. 2 x DIN7991 M8x25mm
7. 2 x M5x20mm grub screws

4) Control box

5) 3D Files

All the 3D files are available on the download page. You can also order directly the 3D printed parts on the shop.

The rollers (this system depends a lot on the seat you have, so for the moment, I don’t include the components in the shopping list of this project). This is not an obligation.

6) Driver wiring

NOTE: The harness tensioner can be dangerous. At full power, it is used a lot around the collarbones. Therefore, an emergency stop button should be provided.

Make all connections without power.

Perform all tests without any parts on the motor shaft.

Once the tests are done, and the belt is installed, perform the tests in 10% power increments, always being able to cut the power.

Caution : Voltages, torques and speeds are important. Take all necessary precautions. I am not responsible for any problem.

a) Driver and motor power supply

It is difficult to make a mistake in the wiring of the motor. This part is detailed on page 8 and 13 of the drivers manual.

b) Arduino

The arduino wiring is detailled on the Smart Control Box documentation. The Gforce control box already comes fully wired and ready-to-use.

7) Driver settings

Drivers similar to AASD have 200 parameters, fortunately you don’t need to change them all.

The drivers manual is available here. This video shows how to set the parameters.

I highly recommend testing the engine operation via flypt with the engine disassembled!

The last three parameters are taken into account by the driver without restarting.

8) Arduino code

You can now flash the final code available here, still selecting Arduino Due (Native USB port).

Open the FlyPT profile. Click on Output::Serial > Update Ports, then select the Arduino port. Click on “connect” to connect the Arduino

Then if no source is connected, you can act directly on the slider (blue in this case) in “Simple Direct” to test the tensioner.

Once everything is in place, click on any source, and connect it. For some sources, you will need to make some modifications to the game. More details on the FlyPT website.

To adjust the force, you can act directly on the Pn189 parameter. The smart control box also allows to adjust the gain on the fly !

9) Assembly

1)To remove the key from the motor shaft, simply screw in an M3 screw that is long enough, and the key will come off by itself.

2) Install the coupler, positioning it using the spacer.

3) Position the bracket, remove the coupler mounting screws, and install the drum using two DIN912 M6x30 and two DIN7991 M6x30 screws.

4) Pass the cable through the hook clamp, then through the slot in the housing, then use one of the two DIN912s to tighten the cable.

5) Install the two M5x20 grub screws

6) Install the housing using the DIN7991 M6x30.

7) Install the tensioner

10) Additionnal adjustements

A mistake in the settings can cause the system to fail and therefore be dangerous. Until you are used to it, always be careful, able to turn off the power or assisted by another person.

There are three “simple direct”: Accel, Brake, Both. Depending on what you want to choose, change the code in the “ouput string” field of the connect window:

In each “simple direct”, you can adjust the gain, and the filtering:

The higher the Emalp value, the smoother it is (it filters details). I recommend values between 10 and 100.

The higher the gain, the stronger the tensioner serves. I obviously recommend to start with a low gain. Recommended value: between 10 and 20.

The post Sim Racing SRT P1 Seat Belt Tensioner V2 appeared first on Lebois Racing.

For each step, there is a dedicated channel on the Discord to help you (go to SRT80 ENGLISH after choosing the language in verify-first.

Summary :

1. How to start
2. How it works
3. Shopping list
4. Control Box
5. Wiring
6. Driver settings
7. Arduino Code
8. Simhub
9. FlyPT configuration
10. Simtools configuration
11. 3D files
12. Assembly
13. FAQ

1) How to start

All the necessary documentation is available on this page. If you have any questions, the FAQ is there to answer them, and if you don’t find what you’re looking for, take a look at the Discord to find the whole community!

The SRT80s are very similar to the OpenSFX100 in their operation. The opensfx.com site is a source of additional information.

To succeed in this project, it is necessary to test your work at each step: the motors alone, the mechanism alone, then the two sets, then the whole on your simulator.

I reiterate the warning: Voltages, torques and speeds are important. Take all necessary precautions. I am not responsible for any problem.

2) How it works

The SRT80 actuators are based on a ball screw with a ball nut on it. The ball nut moves up or down as the screw turns. The screw is attached to the shaft of a motor called a “servo motor”. The servo motor is controlled by a driver. The driver receives instructions from the arduino which tells it how many degrees to turn (pulse), and in which direction (dir).

It is the FlyPT software that retrieves the data from the game, and sends it to the Arduino.

The servo drivers are activated by the Arduino board. Once activated, the drivers emit a very slight aïgu noise, noise covered by the general operation of the simulator.

3) Shopping list

The shopping list is available here. The kit proposed by Industry&CNC is proposed in economic delivery for Europe (delivery by train, indicated by “seller’s shipping method”). This shipping method takes about one month (do not take into account the Aliexpress estimate). Please note that the tracking number provided by Industry&CNC will only be functional at the end of the transport.

Moreover, do not hesitate to contact me if the rates or the shipping costs are aberrant. We tried to offer the best rates on all means of delivery, but there may remain some errors related to the system.

The shopping list is separated in two parts: the first one indicating what is included in the kit, and the second one what is not, and must be ordered separately.

It gives the details of the parts needed to manufacture a cylinder. Industry&Cnc offers a discount on most of the items when you buy 4 of them.

“What is the difference between the A and C drivers?” Unlike C drivers, A drivers emit a high-pitched noise when they are active. This high-pitched noise is covered by the operation of the simulator.

4) Control Box

The control box which houses the arduino is available in several versions:

Standard Control Box	Smart Control Box (Patreon exclusivity)	Competition Control Box
4 actuators	4 actuators + TractionLoss 3 buttons Feeback LED : connection, error.	4 actuators + TractionLoss 3 buttons Feeback LED : connection, error. Plug & Play Emi Shielding
Complete documentation	Complete documentation	Complete documentation

5) Wiring

Caution : Voltages, torques and speeds are important. Take all necessary precautions. I am not responsible for any problem.

a) Driver and motor power supply

It is difficult to make a mistake in the wiring of the motor. This part is detailed on page 8 and 13 of the drivers manual.

b) Wiring between Arduino and driver

We reuse the pulse/dir connectors on the DB25 socket of each driver. On the arduino side we use a 5 pins GX12 connector.

Schematic :

For info: pin 13 of the Arduino is also a mass thanks to the code.

6) Drivers settings

The drivers, similar to AASD, have 200 parameters, fortunately you don’t need to change them all.

They are detailed on page 38 of the manual. This video shows how to modify the parameters.

I highly recommend testing the motor operation via flypt with the engine disassembled!

7) Arduino Code

At this stage, you have your motors wired to the Arduino, without the reste of the mechanical parts. You can flash the Arduino code that is specific to your Control Box (how to flash a code).

We will be able to test the connection between the arduino and the software you are using (Flypt or Simtools). Once the connection has been verified and the motors tested, you can move on to assembling the mechanics.

8) Simhub

The module is currently in beta, so proceed with caution.

1. activate the Motion plugin by clicking on add/remove features, then activate the motion plugin:

2. Install the presets like explained on this page.

3. Enable the effects as follow, then click on “Output settings” :

4. Click on “Add new controller”, then select “SRT80 Competition control box”. If this option is not present, step 2 has been performed incorrectly.

5. Select the correct USB port for the Competition Control Box.

6.Click on “Edit axis assignments” and fill in :

7. You can now click on “Enable Motion”, and the simulator is ready. Depending on the options you have chosen, the simulator may only be active in-game.

9) FlyPT Configuration

All the electronics are ready: Arduino flashed and connected to the drivers, configured drivers, and connected motors, without the mechanical part.

You can now load the dedicated FlyPT profile.

To load the FlyPT profile, launch FlyPt (v3.4.2), right click>file>open and select the profile.

To finalize the installation, click on the “Output::serial” tile, then on “update ports” and in the “port” list select the arduino port. Then click on ” connect “. The motors are all supposed to turn in the same direction smoothly and then stop: this is the simulator that starts from the bottom position to the middle position. Now click on disconnect, and the motors perform the same movement in the other direction: the simulator moves from the middle position to the bottom position. If everything went well, you can continue. Otherwise, see you on the Discord.
Now in the main menu, click on the tile of the simulation of your choice, then click on connect, and check if the motors are reacting to the games inputs.

The FlyPT website contains documentation that you should read if you want to take advantage of it : each game need a specific configuration

Once you have your actuators working and your installation is running smoothly, I also recommend watching this video to understand how to use the filters.

10) Simtools Configuration

Here is the configuration for Simtools V3

And here is the assignment of the axes:

You can launch the game and check if the behavior is as follows:

1) All motors rotate in the same direction at start-up (the simulator moves from the bottom position to the middle position)

2) In game, the engines seem to follow the movements of the car

3) When you leave the game, the actuators perform the opposite movement of 1), the simulator goes from the middle position to the bottom position.

If the behavior is ok, continue with the assembly

11) 3D files

The 3D files are available on the download page.

If you don’t own a 3D printer, you can order them here.

You will also find a step file which will allow you to integrate the actuators in your CAD.

Each file contains a printing instruction in the form xx-xx. The first number is the precision, the second the filling. For example 02-30 means accuracy of 0.2 and filling at 30%. It is also useful to double the thickness of the walls.

The mention “support” indicates that supports are needed…

I also recommend to activate the adhesion to avoid warping (part that comes off the support).

All the parts are in the ideal orientation for printing.

The box containing the Arduino is available separately here.

12) Assembly

13) FAQ

My electrical installation is in 110V, what to do (ex : Canada)

A priori the servos are designed to work with 220v. You can buy a 110v>220v converter (Amazon), or set the drivers to accept 110V, at your own risk of course.

Can I use this actuator in Push-Pull mode?

Yes, just screw in a 22mm ball joint like a POS22.

Why don’t I see any information about the emergency stop button?

Basically there are two failures that can occur: either the motor starts to turn endlessly in one direction, or in the other. In one case, the slider comes to a stop on the linear bearing support, and blocks the motor: no dramatic consequences. In the other case, the slider can break the linear bearing support, then come out of the rod. This is less funny. The problem is that the motor is so fast that you probably won’t have time to cut… That’s why I don’t usually include it in my setups.

Why an Arduino Uno instead of the Leonardo used on the OpenSFX? 

Because the Uno is cheaper, easier to find, and also because it has a USB type A connector that is more resistant than the micro USB of the Leonardo. Moreover, the computing power is the same.

Is the SRT80 compatible with Thanos controller ? 

Yes.

How can I prevent my chassis from jumping when making big movements?

The actuators are powerful enough to make the chassis jump. You need to limit the speed of the actuators or secure them to the floor.

FlyPT or Simtools?

I personally use FlyPT and prefer it because its presentation is more logical (although confusing at first), and it’s much easier to see what’s going on. Furthermore, it is much more practical to share a FlyPT setting than Simtools. That said, Simtools is more popular, its Simtools community established, support is responsive, and software development is very supported. In both cases your experience will be excellent.

2-actuators configuration?

The 2-actuators configuration allows you to obtain a high-quality 2DOF simulator, and to limit the expense before adding the 2 other actuators. To do this, you’ll need a pivot positioned at the center of gravity. A shock-absorbing foot will do the trick nicely. The two actuators are positioned at the front. M1 is the right front, M2 the left. You can then use this specific FlyPT profile.

3-actuators configuration?

The 3-actuators configuration is not recommended: it does indeed produce a 3DOF, as with 4 actuators. But the triangular positioning of the actuators makes the chassis unstable and prevents you from taking full advantage of the actuators’ power. It also means that the “middle actuator” has to be positioned quite a long way in front or behind, which reduces angular travel.

The post SRT80 actuators appeared first on Lebois Racing.

Summary

1. Shopping list
2. Wiring
3. 3D files

1) Shopping list

• DIN912 : 2 x M4x35
• DIN7991 : 2 x M4x15
• DIN7991 : 4 x M4x35
• DIN7991 : 6 x M5x45 (or more)
• PCB custom (Aliexpress)
• Simucube Wireless Emitter
• 10x Buttons 12mm (Aliexpress)
• 2 rotaty encoders CTS 288V232F161B2 (this ref only !) (Electroseed)
• 4 8-headers rows (Aliexpress)
• Dupont connectors (Aliexpress, Amazon)
• Wires 24 AWG (Aliexpress, Amazon Uk, Amazon USA)
• Battery 1200 mAh (Amazon, Aliexpress)
• Steering wheel, BCD 70mm(Aliexpress)
• a pair of magnetic padels

2) Wiring

3) 3D files

3D files are on Thingiverse.

The post Simucube Wireless Button Plate appeared first on Lebois Racing.

It is available on all the Sunlu range : PLA, 3D printers, accessories…

Sunlu offers a wide range of 3D printing products. I mostly use their PLA+ to print my projects.

On top of the 10% Discount, you can add up to 25% OFF by ordering 3kg or 6kg at once. Another great news : you can mix the colors. Every two months I order 6kg of PLA+ black, and 1kg of this awesome copper Silk .

Sunlu PLA +

Probably the PLA I would use the most so far! Semi-matt finish. Good grip and very good strength. I order it often in quantity, and you can always get the 10% discount with the code UEPKDZRAJT.

Sunlu PLA Silk

A matte finish is the easy solution. But it’s not ideal for showcasing pretty shapes or quality printing. Silk PLA has a particularly glossy finish. With a fineness of 0.15mm, the surfaces have a very nice look. The copper color has a very nice copper look.

Sunlu PLA Mat

Recently I ordered a few rolls of their new matte PLA. The rendering is indeed very matte, more so than their PLA +. However, for the moment, as much as it passes perfectly in my Ender3, I have systematically clogging and adhesion problems on the Sunlu S9 … Sunlu S9 which I am not particularly satisfied … My advice: wait for more feedbacks on this product, and if you want a matte rendering, go rather on the PLA + which is a safe value, or the PolyTerra of Polymaker!

More information on the best PLA for 3D printing? Check out our dedicated section!

The post Sunlu : Discount + 10% Off !!! appeared first on Lebois Racing.

Summary:

1. Presentation
2. Shopping list
3. Assembly instructions
4. Electronics

For info: I do not sell ANY PEDALS OR PRINTED PARTS. That would be trading, and I am not, and do not wish to be a trader. I don’t do black either. No need to ask. However, I am looking for a company that could produce plastic parts for those who do not own 3D printers. If you know of any…

1) Presentation

The handbrake is connected to a brake caliper. The applied force is captured in the hydraulic circuit by a pressure sensor.

The feeling is just perfect, and it is perfectly consitent with the brake pedal feeling.

The calipper mount is available on Thingiverse.

3) Shopping list

Electronics:

1. Hydraulic pressure sensor 500psi 1/8″ NPT (Amazon, Aliexpress, Ebay).If you push EXTREMELY hard you might consider using a 1000 psi sensor. I never exceeded 60%.
2. Cables 3cores 22awg (outer diameter is 4mm).

Mechanics:

1. Brake caliper : Single piston (A) (Aliexpress)


2. Handbrake : (Amazon, Aliexpress, Ebay)


3. 1 Banjo M10x1.25 with pressure sensor mount (Ebay) (goes between the brake calipper and the pressure sensor).


4. 1 Banjo UNF 3/8-24UNF (Aliexpress, Ebay) that goes on the master cylinder.


5. 1 brake hose (Amazon, Aliexpress)


6. Joints

Screws

1. 3 x M5x35 Din7991 (Aliexpress)
2. 2 x M8x40 Din912 (Aliexpress)

4) Assembly instructions

5) Electronics

The handbrake can be used either as a analog axis or as a button. The simus compatible with the analog mode are (non exhaustive list):

• Dirt Rally 2.0
• Project CARS 2
• Richard Burns Rally
• Live for Speed
• Automobilista
• Dirt Rally

For the others, you can use the digital mod.

The connection between the handbrake and the pc is made by an Arduino Leonardo, as for the SRT pedals.

The code is here.

To select the operating mode, uncomment the line of the mode to be activated, and comment the mode to be deactivated. For example: :

#define USE_ANALOG_HANDBRAKE
//#define USE_DIGITAL_HANDRAKE

For the digital mode, the digitalHandbrakeSwitch variable is used to set the level at which the handbrake is considered to be engaged.

The post Handbrake hydraulic P1 appeared first on Lebois Racing.