Sim racing has grown massively in popularity, offering an incredibly immersive way to experience motorsports from home. Whether you’re just starting out or looking to upgrade to a more serious setup, choosing the right gear can be overwhelming. With so many wheels, pedals, cockpits, and displays available at various price points, it’s important to know what suits your budget and racing goals.

This guide breaks down the essential components of sim racing rigs into three budget tiers — Beginner ($400), Intermediate ($1,500), and Mid-to-High End (~$4,500) — so you can find the right balance between performance, immersion, and cost. We’ll look at wheels, pedals, mounting solutions, and displays tailored for each level to help you build a rig that feels just right for you.

Beginner Tier (~$400)

Ideal for: Casual sim racers, newcomers who want a solid introduction without heavy investment.

Wheel & Wheelbase

Logitech G920/G29 ($300/$330)
These all-in-one steering wheel and wheelbase combos provide great value for beginners. Both models deliver force feedback and feature quality materials like genuine leather and steel center plates. The main difference is platform compatibility: the G920 supports Xbox and PC, while the G29 is for PlayStation and PC. Internally, they perform identically, offering consistent on-track feedback and solid reliability.

Mounting Solution

GTPLAYER Sim Racing Wheel Stand ($60–90)
A compact and foldable wheel stand compatible with many wheels. It’s well-rated in the racing community as a budget-friendly solution, perfect for those without room for a full cockpit. While not as rigid as more expensive setups, it provides a stable base for entry-level wheels.

Pedals

Included with the wheel — suitable for beginners learning throttle, brake, and clutch control.

Display

VR Option

Meta Quest 3s (~$300)

VR brings an immersive perspective to sim racing, placing you directly inside a virtual cockpit with a true sense of scale and depth. Compared to traditional monitors, it makes it easier to judge corners, braking points, and how the car is moving beneath you. Even an entry-level headset can transform sim racing from simply watching a screen into feeling like you’re really in the driver’s seat. A popular entry-level VR headset that’s easy to set up and can be used wirelessly or tethered to a PC. While not designed specifically for sim racing, it’s a very affordable way to get started with VR immersion. The resolution and optics are decent for casual use, though resolution and fine detail are more limited compared to dedicated PC VR headsets.

Monitor Option

27″ or 32″ 1080p / 144Hz 32″

If you prefer monitors over VR, a single 27″ or 32″ 1080p screen is a popular and affordable choice. A 60Hz 27″ monitor is the most budget-friendly option to get started, while upgrading to a 144Hz 32″ display improves smoothness and responsiveness for a better sense of speed and control.

Intermediate Tier (~$1,500)

Ideal for: Sim racers wanting a more immersive and precise experience without the complexity of top-tier setups.

Wheel & Wheelbase

Moza R5 Bundle ($439)
The Moza R5 is a significant upgrade from entry-level gear, featuring a direct drive motor that offers smoother, stronger, and more detailed force feedback. It supports swappable wheels, allowing customization as you grow. Though it comes with a steeper price and requires PC compatibility, it’s a solid step for racers seeking realism.

Mounting Solution

Playseat Challenge Racing Simulator Cockpit (~$180)
This foldable cockpit is popular for handling direct drive wheels like the Moza R5. Its frame braces against your body weight, helping counter torque and providing greater stability than basic stands. It’s compact and easy to store, though some flex under heavy force feedback is expected.

Pedals

Included with the wheel — often more responsive than beginner pedals, but still integrated in the bundle.

Display

VR Option

Pimax Crystal Light ($887)
Ideal for intermediate sim racing setups, the Crystal Light offers a clear, immersive VR experience without the need for an expensive triple-monitor rig. It’s a good fit for racers who want strong visual clarity and depth without the added space, cost, or complexity of large displays. A practical upgrade for those looking to deepen immersion while staying budget-aware. For many, it strikes the best balance between clarity, comfort, and cost.

Bigscreen Beyond (~$1,019)

An ultra-compact PCVR headset with excellent clarity and very lightweight design. It’s well-suited for seated experiences and long sessions thanks to its comfort, though it requires precise fitment and can feel less versatile outside cockpit sims. While image sharpness is strong, the field of view and overall brightness may be more constrained compared to other options in this price range.

Monitor Option

144Hz 2K (1440p) 32″ / triple 32″ 1080p

At this level, many racers step up to higher resolution or multi-monitor setups. A single 144Hz 2K (1440p) 32″ monitor offers excellent clarity and fluid motion without taking up too much space. Alternatively, a triple 32″ 1080p configuration provides a wide field of view that improves peripheral awareness and immersion, making it easier to spot cars and apexes without head-tracking.

Mid-to-High End Tier (~$4,500)

Ideal for: Serious sim racers seeking professional-grade gear with exceptional precision and immersion.

Wheel & Wheelbase

Fanatec Podium DD1 ($1,000) + Fanatec Podium Series Wheel (~$200)
One of the biggest factors that transforms sim racing from just playing a game into an experience that genuinely feels like driving a real car is the wheel base you choose. Entry-level wheel bases provide some feedback, but it’s often weak and not very precise. A quality direct drive wheel base delivers strong, accurate force feedback that lets you feel the car’s handling, road texture, and when your tires are gripping or sliding. This tactile information is essential for building skill and immersion, and is why so many racers consider a good wheel base the centerpiece of their rig.

The Podium DD1 offers powerful and precise direct drive force feedback tailored for competitive sim racing. Its smooth torque and reliability make it perfect for high-end setups. Paired with Podium Series wheels, it delivers professional-grade control with durable build quality and ergonomic design.

Mounting Solution

P1X Pro Simracing Cockpit ($849)
A rigid, fully adjustable aluminum profile frame built to withstand the strong torque of direct drive wheels like the Podium DD1. Its modular design allows customization and expansion, ensuring minimal flex and a stable foundation that enhances immersion and precision during intense racing.

Pedals

Fanatec ClubSport V3 ($430)
Featuring precision load cell braking and robust construction, these pedals provide realistic pedal feel essential for fine throttle and brake control. Their adjustability and durability make them a reliable choice for demanding racers, striking a great balance between performance and value.

Display

VR Option

Pimax Crystal Super ($1,735)
This ultra-premium VR headset offers elite immersion and visual clarity, making it a top alternative to high-end multi-monitor rigs. It’s ideal for racers seeking maximum focus and realism without the space or cost constraints of ultra-wide or triple-screen setups.

Monitor Option

Samsung 49” Odyssey G9 Gaming Monitor ($1399.99)

For serious immersion, the Samsung G9 ultra-wide is a top-tier single monitor solution, delivering a massive curved display that effectively wraps around your field of vision. Another popular high-end choice is a triple 32″ 2K (1440p) monitor setup, which combines expansive horizontal coverage with sharp resolution.

Side Note: PC Requirements

While this guide focuses mainly on wheels, displays, and cockpits, you’ll also need a gaming PC capable of running your chosen setup smoothly. Here are baseline recommendations for each tier:

Beginner Tier PC Recommendation

For entry-level racing on a single 1080p monitor or basic VR:

• CPU: Intel i5 11th Gen / AMD Ryzen 5 3600 or newer
• GPU: NVIDIA GTX 1660 Super or RTX 2060
• RAM: 16GB
• Storage: 500GB SSD

This level can handle most sim racing titles at medium settings and moderate frame rates.

Intermediate Tier PC Recommendation

For higher refresh rate 2K monitors, triple 1080p displays, or headsets like the Crystal Light:

• CPU: Intel i7 12th Gen / AMD Ryzen 7 5800X
• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3070 or better
• RAM: 32GB
• Storage: 1TB SSD

This spec is well-suited for smooth VR performance and higher graphic settings.

Mid-to-High End Tier PC Recommendation

For triple 2K monitors or demanding VR headsets like the Crystal Super:

• CPU: Intel i9 13th Gen / AMD Ryzen 9 7950X
• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 4090
• RAM: 32–64GB
• Storage: 2TB NVMe SSD

This level ensures maximum visual fidelity and consistent frame rates even in the most demanding scenarios.

Conclusion

Choosing the right sim racing gear depends largely on your budget, space, and how serious you want to get. Beginners can enjoy solid performance and comfort without overspending, while intermediate racers gain immersive force feedback and VR without the complexity or cost of pro-level rigs. For enthusiasts chasing realism and precision, mid-to-high end setups with direct drive wheels, professional pedals, sturdy cockpits, and premium VR displays provide a fully immersive racing experience that can compete with real-world driving.

No matter your level, investing in quality gear that fits your needs will enhance your enjoyment and help you improve on the virtual track. Take your time, plan your build, and most importantly—have fun racing!

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The Control Box Competition is the Plug And Play solution for taking full advantage of SRT80 actuators.

The multi-layer PCB has been optimized to reduce electromagnetic interference and ensure better signal quality.

As a result, you can take full advantage of your actuators in complete safety.

The Control Box Competition is based on an Arduino Leonardo board. The pins used are the same as for the OpenSFX, so the Control Box can also be used for these actuators.

It is supplied pre-flashed and ready to use with Simhub, Flypt or Simtools. Adding the fifth/sixth actuator does not require any modification to the code; you simply need to adapt the FlyPT profile by making the modifications indicated in the manual.

DB25 connectors

The board is designed to use DB25 male-male connectors. Here are two references: Amazon, Aliexpress.

Status LEDs

One LED indicates that FlyPT is connected, and 5 LEDs indicate whether the drivers are operational.

Security

The PCB incorporates end-stop detection on cylinders 1 to 4: if one of these cylinders attempts to exceed its end-stop, the board disables the drivers, and goes into error (flashing red LED).

E-Stop

The board is supplied with an emergency stop port. Use of the E-Stop is optional.

Fifth/sixth actuators

The 5/6 actuators requires calibration, as is the case for a Traction Loss assembly. When connected to FlyPT/simhub, the actuator will retract until it reaches the stop, a stop detected by the driver. The actuator will then relax to reach the middle position. From this point on, it is only controlled by FlyPT.

Motion Center

Download : Motion Center V0.9

Where to buy ?

Manual

Manual download link.

Firmware

Last Version : V1.5 (no button)

Last Version : V1.5 (button)

Old version (compatible Simhub) : V1.4

Old version (compatible FlyPT) : V1.3

The no button version runs faster. In theory, this means the motors spin faster. In practice, the difference isn’t necessarily noticeable. If you don’t use the buttons on the v1 control box, use the no button version.

How to update the code:

• Download the Arduino IDE and install it. During installation, accept the installation of the USB drivers.
• Shut down Simhub completely.
• Launch the Arduino IDE.
• Upload the downloaded code (the file with the .ino extension).
• Select the Arduino Leonardo from the drop-down menu (be sure to select the correct device. Don’t hesitate to unplug and replug the control box to ensure it’s the correct port).
• Click upload.
• Restart Simhub and reset the port if necessary.
• Finish.

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Presentation

The 3D files needed to build the RHD version are in the “mod RHD” folder of the 3D files archive. The parts supplied have all the RHD wording engraved somewhere.

Only the tracks are not included, but all you have to do is load the normal tracks, and mirror them on Cura :

Apart from these files and tracks, there are no other changes to report.

Not all mods have been converted for the RHD mod. Feel free to ask for the files, and I’ll make the changes.

The post RHD Mod for the SRT Gearbox V9.1 appeared first on Lebois Racing.

1. Features
2. Shopping list
3. Wiring
4. Code
5. 3D Files

1) Features

The Standard Control Box for SRT80 actuators is the basic solution for controlling actuators. For more features, see the Smart Control Box or the Competition.

2) Shopping list

3) Wiring

4) Code

Available here.

5) 3D files

Available here

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First of all, thank you for your numerous donations which allowed me to finance this project!

The shopping list is finalized and should not change. At this stage, what we are trying to set up with Industry&CNC, is to group the maximum of parts in a single kit, which can be shipped by train, to limit the costs as much as possible. Eventually, we would like to have something like 5 items:

• Complete cylinders (in parts, with 3D printing)
• The classic mechanical kit
• Motor kit
• Profile kit
• Screw kit

Tell us in comments if you see something else.

I have therefore recently placed an order for many parts, which will be shipped by train. This brings us directly to September, but I absolutely want to test this mode of transport before it is offered to everyone.

We’ll see later on if we can offer the parts in 3D printing, and why not even in CNC machining.

I have also started to work on the documentation, which will be a little more focused on the site than on the Discord. It will still be step by step, with explanations, diagrams, and videos. Maybe also more pictures than usual. I also decided to use as many parameters as possible from the OpenSFX in order to “standardize” the actuators.

To shoot all the videos I’ll need the ordered parts but we should already have a functional documentation well before.

I’ve also encountered some more problems with my Ender3… I’m thinking of overhauling it completely and selling it in order to switch to an Artillery Sidewinder or other.

The post SRT80 : where are we ? appeared first on Lebois Racing.

Get 10% OFF on all Sunlu products  with this code!

Thingiverse files

Steering Wheels

The files are distributed under the Creative Commons BY-NC-ND license. This means:

• Attribution (BY): You must give appropriate credit when using these files.
• Non-Commercial (NC): You are not allowed to use these files for commercial purposes.
• No Derivatives (ND): You are not allowed to modify, adapt, or redistribute these files.

For any inquiries regarding usage beyond this license, please contact me.

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I am working on new actuators that are based on servo motors !

EDIT : they are online ! 

The post New project : actuators SRT80 ! appeared first on Lebois Racing.

1. What is a load cell

Load cells come in many shapes, and with different wirings.

But the basic is the following : you run wires along a metal part. When applying a load on this part, the part will deform a little bit, making the wires a little bit longer.

And the longer the wire, the higher the resistance.

And the deal is to measure the resistance delta by measuring the voltage difference. Obviously, the difference will be minimal, so we need an amplifier to measure that tiny difference (about some mV).

Load cells usually comes with three or four wires. We won’t get into details but with three wires, you measure one resistance delta, and with four, you measure two resistances deltas, so it will be more accurate.

As said, loadcells comes with different shapes, but also load ratings. You don’t want to put a 500kg load on a 1kg kitchen scale load cell… You will probably bend the load cell.

By the way, you really want to use short shielded wires between the load cell and the amplifier.

Now that you are aware of all of this, let’s get into the amplifier part.

2. Load cell amplifiers : digital or analog ?

The other thing you want to take care of is : do you want a digital or an analog output ?

With an analog output, your load cell will behave like a potentiometer. I would say that it’s the easiest way to use a load cell. The main downside is that the resolution depends on the ADC (analog to digital converter) you use. By example, Leonardo Arduino’s come with a 10 bits ADC (0 to 1023 points), that isn’t very high (high end pedals usally use 12 bits to 16 bits resolutions).

With digital amplifiers, the circuit and the code will be more complex. They usally requires at least two wires (beside 5v and ground wires) : one for the clock, that will synchronise all the components, and one for the data, that will actually send the data… You will also probably need a specific library (if you use an Arduino or a programmable board). With digital amplifiers, you want to check if the refresh rate is high enough.

3. Gain

The main parameters with amplifiers is the gain. As said before, we try to measure little variances in resistance, that will be seen as voltage variances. Let’s say that the delta between no load and maximum load on your load cell introduces a 1 mV delta. You will need to set the gain to 5000 to use the whole Arduino ADC range (5000*1 mV =5000 mV = 5V).

There is generally two ways to set the gain, that depends on the amplifier you use :

1. Resistance based : the gain depends on the resistance between two pins. You want to use a potentiometer to easily adjust the gain. You will also find the gain formula in the datasheets.
2. Software based : the gain is adjusted directly by the code. You find it with digital amplifiers most of the time.

4. Some common amplifiers

analog :

INA122 and INA129 are very cheap amplifiers. The gain is set by putting a resistor between pins 1 and 8 (see the datasheet here).

But be really carefull with the wiring as there is no security. I fried many of them due to wiring issues. You can find the 129 with a complete PCB like this one. 

AD620 : similar to INA12x but you will find that kind of boards that are more complete, and comes with gain potentiometer and offset potentiometer (to tare the readings). Datasheet here.

digital :

HX711 is the only one you will find. The problem is that the refresh rate is quite low (80 readings/sec). Datasheet here.

5. 3 or 4 wires load cell wiring

When you use a 3 wires load cell, you want to build a circuit that makes that 3 wires LC looks like a 4 wires LC by using a half bridge. In short it create the 2nd resistance variation, that will entirely depends on the first one.

You can also combien two 3 wires load cell to act as a single 4 wires.

6. Arduino code

Here you can think Arduino code that are working out of the box. Your arduino will be recognized as a joystick, and you can use it directly in game. It requires a Atmega 32U4 based arduino (Leonardo or Micro by example). So it won’t work with a Uno. All the libraries are included.

Too be added

The post Build a Load cell based brake pedal. appeared first on Lebois Racing.

To put it in context: I’m currently working on the P1 gas pedal and clutch pedals (not on the brake).

The first version of the P1 brake was released in December 2019. The gas pedal was never made (the GT version was there to make up for this lack), mainly because I was missing some technical solutions. I thought many times about this project. I sometimes printed parts, or ordered sensors, but nothing very conclusive.

Until I restarted the project in December 2021, thanks to some new ideas, and also to the help of Industry&CNC which once again offers us custom parts.

So here we go with the list of expenses. We’ll break this down into two parts.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

First part: the costs before December 2021.

Well, we are not going to count (boring), it is just to give an idea:

So..no potentiometer mount… I don’t know how old it is. I know I had printed the lever too, and that I had done a lot of tests on the axles for the springs.

Anyway, that was just to show you that I never really gave up on the project. But the GT pedal did the trick, and I had a gearbox to develop ;-).

To your calculators!

Let’s jump to December 2022. Just so we understand each other: the pedal is based on a principle similar to the Heusinkveld pedals: we have an axle on which there is a spring, and there is a secondary spring, much weaker, which presses on a load cell (pressure sensor) which is our position sensor.

The first order is 28,59€ of springs (85 springs in all) of different sizes.

Then we got 12,59€ of these nice little hand nuts. Well it was not an absolute necessity, but it’s so classy…

Then comes 43,2€ from Industry&CNC, for the custom axes, and these…I don’t know the name actually.

I then recommended two Arduino (one to mount on the simulator, and one on the pc side, to develop the code). 27,93€

The pressure sensors (obviously…), 5 pieces, with the HX711 amplification circuits: 10,83€.

As for the springs, we place a second order (I did not find my happiness in the 9 references received): 13,54€.

Then one week later I realize that I still needed other springs: 10,65€.

Then there is a moment we want that it advances, so we order on Amazon other springs: 9€.

GX12 connectors to make a junction box: 22,18€.

After a few tortured HX711 amplification circuits, I realize that it won’t do the job, I need another type of PCB. I then took out what I found from the INA129 and INA122 that I had tortured in the past (I found 46€ worth of bills in my history).

But, the INA, it’s because of them that I had given up the load cell for a hydraulic pressure sensor: I can never make them work… So I looked elsewhere, and I found this amplifier circuit on Amazon. 17,39€ for the three of them, not expensive, right? Except that I understood at the delivery that it was 17,39€ the amplifier + the dupont connector + the cable… So it’s expensive. I told the seller that it was a scam, he didn’t answer.

Mais bon, les INA, c’est à cause d’eux que j’avais laissé tombé les load cell pour un capteur de pression hydraulique : je n’arrive jamais à les faire fonctionner… Du coup j’ai cherché ailleurs, et j’ai trouvé ce circuit d’amplification sur Amazon. 17,39€ les trois, pas cher non ? Sauf que j’ai compris à la livraison que c’était 17,39€ l’ampli + le connecteur dupont + le câble… Du coup ça fait cher. J’ai dit au vendeur que c’était de l’arnaque, il n’a pas répondu.

So then I ordered two other AD620 on Aliexpress. 11,24€.

At that time, I ran out of the small male metal parts for the Dupont connectors, so I recommended a box, 13€.

Well, there are other parts I needed and had for a while: the KP08, the two bearings, and the ball joint. Well lazy, let’s say it cost 5€.

On the other hand, I had some play on the ball joint, I incriminated the M8 screw, and I ordered some roller pins. 3.08€ on Ali, and it’s red, so cool ! But it will only arrive in a long time, so 15€ on Amazon. At the delivery I realize that I still have the play, so I send it back (but the 3€ from Ali are lost).

After that, I order on 123roulement : 36,83€…

On the electronic side, I ordered the ADS1115 16 bits converters that I talk about here, 20€. But they are not very fast (one reading every 4ms …). So I ordered this special arduino, 12,44€.

There are two expenses left:

PLA: in 3 months I consumed 9kg of PLA. Not only for the pedals, that’s for sure. But we can count that since December, 3kg have been used (easy…), so we count 60€.

Then the maintenance of the printers: my two ender 3 turn a lot, so I have to change the heating element and other parts frequently. I’ll only count here this heating element, ordered at the end of november, and that I screwed up last week by running the printer without the fan that I had removed for cleaning… 27€.

Well, and we won’t count the screws, the tin, the electricity…

Balance sheet

Total : 430,49€, and I still have to print everything all over again

Well, it was tiring…but enriching (yes, the term is wrong…).

It also gives a small idea of what the development of the gearbox could cost…

So I’d like to thank all the people who donated this week-end, it allowed me to place the last orders, and I hope that the final P1 will be in test this week.

I’ll put back a link to my Paypal in case your accounting is in a better state than mine 😉

The post How much does it cost to create a pedal appeared first on Lebois Racing.

To improve it, we can use an external 16-bit Analog to Digital converter like this one. It will convert the signal from the sensors into a number between 0 and 65535 (2^16). To give you a guide, Heusinkveld pedals use a 12 bit resolution (0-4095). The board then communicates with the Arduino using the I2C protocol.

You can connect 4 sensors on this card (3 pedals and a handbrake for example).

The other advantage of using this type of board is the fact that you can connect multiple I2C boards to the Arduino, using only two wires.

For example on the SRT box, we can connect to the I2C port the pedals and two button boxes without any problem.

Shopping list

• ADC 16 bits converter ADS1115 (Aliexpress)

The code is configured to work with the ADS1015 (12 bits) or the ADS1115 chip (16 bits). The ADS1015 is a little bit faster than the ADS1115.

Wiring

The card can be connected to the SRT gearbox PCB on the Button Box port:

The ADDR pin of the ADS115 can be connected directly to the GND pin of the PCB.

Code (from 2.6)

In the code, set the first boolean to “true” :

SRTPedals_ SRTPedals(1, //number of pedals
0, 0, 0, 0,//min
1023, 1023, 1023, 1023,//max
true,//isADS
false,//Led mod
0,1,2,3, //Led pins
&Joystick);

For more help, check this project.

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