• No Turn fix: the upper bearing lip (highlighted in blue on the image) had been missing since the last update (LHD only). If your gearbox is already printed, you can replace this lip with an M5 washer.

• Seq holder RHD: a small piece of plastic was sticking out.
• Body2 get rid of a feature that was canceled below the carriage
• Major cleanup work on my side to remove duplicate functions, fix errors, and completely reorganize the source files in order to… archive this project.

Yes, indeed, we’re reaching the end of the road for the V10. The 3D part is finalized. There are still a few improvements to make on the firmware, but the project has finally reached maturity. That doesn’t really show in this update, but cleaning up all the files takes a huge amount of time—and it’s a necessity for the future.

I can already hear some saying that the end of V10 means the beginning of V11. Not really. There are too many ongoing projects right now to start developing a V11, and I don’t yet have enough ideas to justify one. Well… I might have a lead… but that’s something we’ll have to discuss together.

Meanwhile, I’ve mainly made progress on two projects:

1. Competition Control Box: added support for the 6th actuator, and a complete code overhaul to allow configuring the control box directly through the Arduino IDE serial monitor. Basically, we’ll be able to communicate with the box just like with the driver:
   • Send P to display the parameters menu (set max travel, margins, connected motors)

• • Send F to display the functions menu (calibrate, test, etc.)Send
• • D to display all saved parameters

It might sound a bit abstract, but the code is structured so that at every step, the user is guided with clear instructions on what each command does.

2) GT Tensioner: I’m continuing the first driver tests. At first glance, the P1 will still remain more refined (more responsive/accurate/silent). I hope the GT V4 will be ready by December.

As usual, the 3D files are available here for PRO contributors:
👉 https://lebois-racing.com/exclusive-files-for-pro-and-elite-patreons/

The post SRT Gearbox : August Update and news appeared first on Lebois Racing.

The V2 offers torque gains thanks to a smaller diameter spool. The housing is now total for greater safety.

Summary:

1. Presentation
2. Caracteristics
3. Shopping list
4. Control Box
5. 3D files
6. Driver wiring
7. Driver settings
8. Arduino code and FlyPT profile
9. Assembly
10. Additional adjustements

1) Presentation

What is surprising is the absence of latency and the strength, we even feel the kerbs!

The harness tensioner consists of a harness (4 or 5 points), an servo motor, and an arduino board connected to FlyPT.

The system is precise and reactive, it engages immediately, and we feel the difference of braking between a F1 and a basic car, we also feel the activation of the ABS. It’s the most satisfying solution to feel the G forces in Sim Racing.

This system may not allow to adjust the braking. However, we feel a direct link between the pressure applied on the pedal and the tightening of the belt.

2) Caracteristics

The motor pulls on a cable that wraps around a reel. The cable pulls the belt backwards, which gives the impression of being thrown forward.

There is a casing that is mounted around the reel for safety.

3) Shopping list

Industry&CNC offer a kit (fast shipping, slow shipping) that includes :

1. 1 x 80st-M02430 servo motor with a AASD15a driver and shielded cables
2. 1 x 80st mounting bracket
3. 1 x GX12 4 pin connector
4. 1 x Câble 4 fils, 22AWG
5. 1 x Shaft coupler
6. 1 x bicycle brake cable

It remains then to order :

1. Arduino Due (Amazon, I haven’t tested a clone).
2. A 4 points seat belt (I tested 5 points, but as a man, I didn’t find it pleasant, you know what I mean?)  (Aliexpress).
3. 0.5kg of pla to print the drum.
4. 2 x DIN912 M6x30mm
5. 6 x DIN7991 M6x30mm with nuts
6. 2 x DIN7991 M8x25mm
7. 2 x M5x20mm grub screws

4) Control box

5) 3D Files

All the 3D files are available on the download page. You can also order directly the 3D printed parts on the shop.

The rollers (this system depends a lot on the seat you have, so for the moment, I don’t include the components in the shopping list of this project). This is not an obligation.

6) Driver wiring

NOTE: The harness tensioner can be dangerous. At full power, it is used a lot around the collarbones. Therefore, an emergency stop button should be provided.

Make all connections without power.

Perform all tests without any parts on the motor shaft.

Once the tests are done, and the belt is installed, perform the tests in 10% power increments, always being able to cut the power.

Caution : Voltages, torques and speeds are important. Take all necessary precautions. I am not responsible for any problem.

a) Driver and motor power supply

It is difficult to make a mistake in the wiring of the motor. This part is detailed on page 8 and 13 of the drivers manual.

b) Arduino

The arduino wiring is detailled on the Smart Control Box documentation. The Gforce control box already comes fully wired and ready-to-use.

7) Driver settings

Drivers similar to AASD have 200 parameters, fortunately you don’t need to change them all.

The drivers manual is available here. This video shows how to set the parameters.

I highly recommend testing the engine operation via flypt with the engine disassembled!

The last three parameters are taken into account by the driver without restarting.

8) Arduino code

You can now flash the final code available here, still selecting Arduino Due (Native USB port).

Open the FlyPT profile. Click on Output::Serial > Update Ports, then select the Arduino port. Click on “connect” to connect the Arduino

Then if no source is connected, you can act directly on the slider (blue in this case) in “Simple Direct” to test the tensioner.

Once everything is in place, click on any source, and connect it. For some sources, you will need to make some modifications to the game. More details on the FlyPT website.

To adjust the force, you can act directly on the Pn189 parameter. The smart control box also allows to adjust the gain on the fly !

9) Assembly

1)To remove the key from the motor shaft, simply screw in an M3 screw that is long enough, and the key will come off by itself.

2) Install the coupler, positioning it using the spacer.

3) Position the bracket, remove the coupler mounting screws, and install the drum using two DIN912 M6x30 and two DIN7991 M6x30 screws.

4) Pass the cable through the hook clamp, then through the slot in the housing, then use one of the two DIN912s to tighten the cable.

5) Install the two M5x20 grub screws

6) Install the housing using the DIN7991 M6x30.

7) Install the tensioner

10) Additionnal adjustements

A mistake in the settings can cause the system to fail and therefore be dangerous. Until you are used to it, always be careful, able to turn off the power or assisted by another person.

There are three “simple direct”: Accel, Brake, Both. Depending on what you want to choose, change the code in the “ouput string” field of the connect window:

In each “simple direct”, you can adjust the gain, and the filtering:

The higher the Emalp value, the smoother it is (it filters details). I recommend values between 10 and 100.

The higher the gain, the stronger the tensioner serves. I obviously recommend to start with a low gain. Recommended value: between 10 and 20.

The post Sim Racing SRT P1 Seat Belt Tensioner V2 appeared first on Lebois Racing.

Traction Loss lets you feel the sensation of the rear end of the car drifting.

On the chassis side, the shopping list includes two frames:

Lower frame: the one that will be fixed, and which receives the SRT80 actuator. It’s not exactly a rectangle, as the rear section is longer to accommodate the rails.

Upper frame: the one that pivots. This frame can be the one that holds your seat, or you can install a 4-actuator frame.

Any change in geometry modifies the length of all parts. So, if you deviate from the suggested dimensions, you’ll probably have to adjust the length of some parts. The proposed rail lengths are slightly oversized to allow adjustment to geometries approaching those proposed.

1) Shopping list

The shopping list doesn’t include the brackets.

Rig/frame :

Low frame dimensions: 70cm x 124cm

• 1 x 8040 62cm
• 2 x 8040 120cm
• 1 x 8040 110cm

Top frame dimensions: 70cm x 130cm

• 2 x 8040 62cm
• 2 x 8040 130cm

Rod ends/bearings :

3 x SHF12 (Aliexpress)

3 x FK12 (Aliexpress)

2 x SK12 (Aliexpress)

2 x SK20 (Aliexpress)

2 x KP001 (Aliexpress)

1 x POS22 (male thread-right, M22x1.5) (Aliexpress)

Rails :

2x30cm MGN15H with carriage (Aliexpress)

2x10cm MGN15H with carriage (Aliexpress)

Axles :

1 x 12x150mm (Aliexpress)

1 x custom axle (Aliexpress)

3 x Limit Screw D12 (M10), length40mm (Aliexpress)

Screws:

T nuts :

12 x M6

M3 for rails

2) Driver settings:

1. pn62 = 6
2. pn024 = 100

Wiring :

Here is how to wire the driver to the arduino if you are using the Smart Control Box. If you are using the Competition Control Box, you don’t need to do anything.

Calibration is performed as follows: the motor runs until it reaches the stop.Then it goes to the middle position. Then it will use data coming from simtools or flypt.

4) 3D files

The 3D files are available on the download page.

If you don’t own a 3D printer, you can order them here.

Each file contains a printing instruction in the form rxxixx. The first number is the precision, the second the filling. For example r02i30 means accuracy of 0.2 and filling at 30%. It is also useful to double the thickness of the walls.

The mention “support” indicates that supports are needed…

I also recommend to activate the adhesion to avoid warping (part that comes off the support).

All the parts are in the ideal orientation for printing.

You need to print the parts for the front pivot once, and the parts for the rear pivot twice.

5) Assembly

The post Traction loss rig with SRT80 actuators appeared first on Lebois Racing.

The post Seat Belt tensioner P1 : Smart Control Box appeared first on Lebois Racing.

1) Shopping list

• 4 x upgrade kit for OpenSFX actuators (Aliexpress)
• 16 x DIN912 M6x110mm
• 16 x DIN912 M6x70mm
• 16 x DIN7991 M3x20
• 4 x grub screw M6x12

2) 3D files

The 3D files are available on Thingiverse.

You will also find a step file which will allow you to integrate the cylinders in your CAD.

Each file contains a printing instruction in the form xx-xx. The first number is the precision, the second the filling. For example 02-30 means accuracy of 0.2 and filling at 30%. It is also useful to double the thickness of the walls.

The mention “support” indicates that supports are needed…

I also recommend to activate the adhesion to avoid warping (part that comes off the support).

I recommend using the Cura slicer.

All the parts are in the ideal orientation for printing.

3) Assembly

The assembly is the same as the SRT80.

The post Upgrade kit for OpenSFX Actuators appeared first on Lebois Racing.

For each step, there is a dedicated channel on the Discord to help you (go to SRT80 ENGLISH after choosing the language in verify-first.

Summary :

1. How to start
2. How it works
3. Shopping list
4. Control Box
5. Wiring
6. Driver settings
7. Arduino Code
8. Simhub
9. FlyPT configuration
10. Simtools configuration
11. 3D files
12. Assembly
13. FAQ

1) How to start

All the necessary documentation is available on this page. If you have any questions, the FAQ is there to answer them, and if you don’t find what you’re looking for, take a look at the Discord to find the whole community!

The SRT80s are very similar to the OpenSFX100 in their operation. The opensfx.com site is a source of additional information.

To succeed in this project, it is necessary to test your work at each step: the motors alone, the mechanism alone, then the two sets, then the whole on your simulator.

I reiterate the warning: Voltages, torques and speeds are important. Take all necessary precautions. I am not responsible for any problem.

2) How it works

The SRT80 actuators are based on a ball screw with a ball nut on it. The ball nut moves up or down as the screw turns. The screw is attached to the shaft of a motor called a “servo motor”. The servo motor is controlled by a driver. The driver receives instructions from the arduino which tells it how many degrees to turn (pulse), and in which direction (dir).

It is the FlyPT software that retrieves the data from the game, and sends it to the Arduino.

The servo drivers are activated by the Arduino board. Once activated, the drivers emit a very slight aïgu noise, noise covered by the general operation of the simulator.

3) Shopping list

The shopping list is available here. The kit proposed by Industry&CNC is proposed in economic delivery for Europe (delivery by train, indicated by “seller’s shipping method”). This shipping method takes about one month (do not take into account the Aliexpress estimate). Please note that the tracking number provided by Industry&CNC will only be functional at the end of the transport.

Moreover, do not hesitate to contact me if the rates or the shipping costs are aberrant. We tried to offer the best rates on all means of delivery, but there may remain some errors related to the system.

The shopping list is separated in two parts: the first one indicating what is included in the kit, and the second one what is not, and must be ordered separately.

It gives the details of the parts needed to manufacture a cylinder. Industry&Cnc offers a discount on most of the items when you buy 4 of them.

“What is the difference between the A and C drivers?” Unlike C drivers, A drivers emit a high-pitched noise when they are active. This high-pitched noise is covered by the operation of the simulator.

4) Control Box

The control box which houses the arduino is available in several versions:

Standard Control Box	Smart Control Box (Patreon exclusivity)	Competition Control Box
4 actuators	4 actuators + TractionLoss 3 buttons Feeback LED : connection, error.	4 actuators + TractionLoss 3 buttons Feeback LED : connection, error. Plug & Play Emi Shielding
Complete documentation	Complete documentation	Complete documentation

5) Wiring

Caution : Voltages, torques and speeds are important. Take all necessary precautions. I am not responsible for any problem.

a) Driver and motor power supply

It is difficult to make a mistake in the wiring of the motor. This part is detailed on page 8 and 13 of the drivers manual.

b) Wiring between Arduino and driver

We reuse the pulse/dir connectors on the DB25 socket of each driver. On the arduino side we use a 5 pins GX12 connector.

Schematic :

For info: pin 13 of the Arduino is also a mass thanks to the code.

6) Drivers settings

The drivers, similar to AASD, have 200 parameters, fortunately you don’t need to change them all.

They are detailed on page 38 of the manual. This video shows how to modify the parameters.

I highly recommend testing the motor operation via flypt with the engine disassembled!

7) Arduino Code

At this stage, you have your motors wired to the Arduino, without the reste of the mechanical parts. You can flash the Arduino code that is specific to your Control Box (how to flash a code).

We will be able to test the connection between the arduino and the software you are using (Flypt or Simtools). Once the connection has been verified and the motors tested, you can move on to assembling the mechanics.

8) Simhub

The module is currently in beta, so proceed with caution.

1. activate the Motion plugin by clicking on add/remove features, then activate the motion plugin:

2. Install the presets like explained on this page.

3. Enable the effects as follow, then click on “Output settings” :

4. Click on “Add new controller”, then select “SRT80 Competition control box”. If this option is not present, step 2 has been performed incorrectly.

5. Select the correct USB port for the Competition Control Box.

6.Click on “Edit axis assignments” and fill in :

7. You can now click on “Enable Motion”, and the simulator is ready. Depending on the options you have chosen, the simulator may only be active in-game.

9) FlyPT Configuration

All the electronics are ready: Arduino flashed and connected to the drivers, configured drivers, and connected motors, without the mechanical part.

You can now load the dedicated FlyPT profile.

To load the FlyPT profile, launch FlyPt (v3.4.2), right click>file>open and select the profile.

To finalize the installation, click on the “Output::serial” tile, then on “update ports” and in the “port” list select the arduino port. Then click on ” connect “. The motors are all supposed to turn in the same direction smoothly and then stop: this is the simulator that starts from the bottom position to the middle position. Now click on disconnect, and the motors perform the same movement in the other direction: the simulator moves from the middle position to the bottom position. If everything went well, you can continue. Otherwise, see you on the Discord.
Now in the main menu, click on the tile of the simulation of your choice, then click on connect, and check if the motors are reacting to the games inputs.

The FlyPT website contains documentation that you should read if you want to take advantage of it : each game need a specific configuration

Once you have your actuators working and your installation is running smoothly, I also recommend watching this video to understand how to use the filters.

10) Simtools Configuration

Here is the configuration for Simtools V3

And here is the assignment of the axes:

You can launch the game and check if the behavior is as follows:

1) All motors rotate in the same direction at start-up (the simulator moves from the bottom position to the middle position)

2) In game, the engines seem to follow the movements of the car

3) When you leave the game, the actuators perform the opposite movement of 1), the simulator goes from the middle position to the bottom position.

If the behavior is ok, continue with the assembly

11) 3D files

The 3D files are available on the download page.

If you don’t own a 3D printer, you can order them here.

You will also find a step file which will allow you to integrate the actuators in your CAD.

Each file contains a printing instruction in the form xx-xx. The first number is the precision, the second the filling. For example 02-30 means accuracy of 0.2 and filling at 30%. It is also useful to double the thickness of the walls.

The mention “support” indicates that supports are needed…

I also recommend to activate the adhesion to avoid warping (part that comes off the support).

All the parts are in the ideal orientation for printing.

The box containing the Arduino is available separately here.

12) Assembly

13) FAQ

My electrical installation is in 110V, what to do (ex : Canada)

A priori the servos are designed to work with 220v. You can buy a 110v>220v converter (Amazon), or set the drivers to accept 110V, at your own risk of course.

Can I use this actuator in Push-Pull mode?

Yes, just screw in a 22mm ball joint like a POS22.

Why don’t I see any information about the emergency stop button?

Basically there are two failures that can occur: either the motor starts to turn endlessly in one direction, or in the other. In one case, the slider comes to a stop on the linear bearing support, and blocks the motor: no dramatic consequences. In the other case, the slider can break the linear bearing support, then come out of the rod. This is less funny. The problem is that the motor is so fast that you probably won’t have time to cut… That’s why I don’t usually include it in my setups.

Why an Arduino Uno instead of the Leonardo used on the OpenSFX? 

Because the Uno is cheaper, easier to find, and also because it has a USB type A connector that is more resistant than the micro USB of the Leonardo. Moreover, the computing power is the same.

Is the SRT80 compatible with Thanos controller ? 

Yes.

How can I prevent my chassis from jumping when making big movements?

The actuators are powerful enough to make the chassis jump. You need to limit the speed of the actuators or secure them to the floor.

FlyPT or Simtools?

I personally use FlyPT and prefer it because its presentation is more logical (although confusing at first), and it’s much easier to see what’s going on. Furthermore, it is much more practical to share a FlyPT setting than Simtools. That said, Simtools is more popular, its Simtools community established, support is responsive, and software development is very supported. In both cases your experience will be excellent.

2-actuators configuration?

The 2-actuators configuration allows you to obtain a high-quality 2DOF simulator, and to limit the expense before adding the 2 other actuators. To do this, you’ll need a pivot positioned at the center of gravity. A shock-absorbing foot will do the trick nicely. The two actuators are positioned at the front. M1 is the right front, M2 the left. You can then use this specific FlyPT profile.

3-actuators configuration?

The 3-actuators configuration is not recommended: it does indeed produce a 3DOF, as with 4 actuators. But the triangular positioning of the actuators makes the chassis unstable and prevents you from taking full advantage of the actuators’ power. It also means that the “middle actuator” has to be positioned quite a long way in front or behind, which reduces angular travel.

The post SRT80 actuators appeared first on Lebois Racing.

EDIT : The V2 is online !

Summary:

1. Presentation
2. Caracteristics
3. Shopping list
4. Control Box
5. 3D files
6. Wiring
7. Driver settings
8. Arduino code and FlyPT profile
9. Assembly
10. Additional adjustements

1) Presentation

What is surprising is the absence of latency and the strength, we even feel the kerbs!

The harness tensioner consists of a harness (4 or 5 points), an servo motor, and an arduino board connected to FlyPT.

The system is precise and reactive, it engages immediately, and we feel the difference of braking between a F1 and a basic car, we also feel the activation of the ABS. It’s the most satisfying solution to feel the G forces in Sim Racing.

This system may not allow to adjust the braking. However, we feel a direct link between the pressure applied on the pedal and the tightening of the belt.

2) Caracteristics

The motor pulls on a cable that wraps around a reel. The cable pulls the belt backwards, which gives the impression of being thrown forward.

There is a casing that is mounted around the reel for safety.

3) Shopping list

Industry&CNC offer a kit (fast shipping, slow shipping) that includes :

1. 1 x 80st-M02430 servo motor with a AASD15a driver and shielded cables
2. 1 x 80st mounting bracket
3. 1 x GX12 4 pin connector
4. 1 x Câble 4 fils, 22AWG
5. 1 x Shaft coupler
6. 1 x bicycle brake cable

It remains then to order :

1. Arduino Due (Amazon, I haven’t tested a clone).
2. A 4 points seat belt (I tested 5 points, but as a man, I didn’t find it pleasant, you know what I mean?)  (Aliexpress).
3. 0.1kg of pla to print the drum.
4. 4 x DIN912 M3x5mm
5. 4 x DIN912 M6x20mm with nuts
6. 2 x DIN912 M6x25mm
7. 2 x DIN7991 M6x25mm
8. 1 x DIN7991 M5x40mm

4) Control box

5) 3D Files

All the 3D files are available on the download page. 3D prints can be ordered from the Etsy shop.

The rollers (this system depends a lot on the seat you have, so for the moment, I don’t include the components in the shopping list of this project).

6) Wiring

NOTE: The harness tensioner can be dangerous. At full power, it is used a lot around the collarbones. Therefore, an emergency stop button should be provided.

Make all connections without power.

Perform all tests without any parts on the motor shaft.

Once the tests are done, and the belt is installed, perform the tests in 10% power increments, always being able to cut the power.

The arduino is connected to the motor driver via the 22AWG cable. The control box contains the arduino and a GX12 aviation connector.

7) Driver settings

Drivers similar to AASD have 200 parameters, fortunately you don’t need to change them all.

The drivers manual is available here. This video shows how to set the parameters.

I highly recommend testing the engine operation via flypt with the engine disassembled!

The last three parameters are taken into account by the driver without restarting.

8) Arduino code and FLYPT profile

You will need to add the library to manage the Arduino due: Tools > Board type > Board manager > type Due in the search bar and install the “Arduino SAM Boards” package. Then restart the IDE.

Before using the seat belt tensioner, the offset (Pn190) must be calibrated. Flash this test code with Arduino Due (Native USB port) selected: the driver should normally be active (it emits a very slight high pitched noise). If the motor is running by itself, change the parameter Pn190 until the motor is not running anymore, or just pulling very very very lightly on the belt (in my case, I am at -1600).

You can now flash the final code available here, still selecting Arduino Due (Native USB port).

Open the FlyPT profile. Click on Output::Serial > Update Ports, then select the Arduino port. Click on “connect” to connect the Arduino

Then if no source is connected, you can act directly on the slider (blue in this case) in “Simple Direct” to test the tensioner.

Once everything is in place, click on any source, and connect it. For some sources, you will need to make some modifications to the game. More details on the FlyPT website.

To adjust the force, you can act directly on the Pn189 parameter. The smart control box also allows to adjust the gain on the fly !

9) Assembly

The step file is available on Thingiverse if you want to check the full assembly. In the following video we are going to see how to assemble step by step the seat belt tensioner.

10) Additionnal adjustements

A mistake in the settings can cause the system to fail and therefore be dangerous. Until you are used to it, always be careful, able to turn off the power or assisted by another person.

There are three “simple direct”: Accel, Brake, Both. Depending on what you want to choose, change the code in the “ouput string” field of the connect window:

In each “simple direct”, you can adjust the gain, and the filtering:

The higher the Emalp value, the smoother it is (it filters details). I recommend values between 10 and 100.

The higher the gain, the stronger the tensioner serves. I obviously recommend to start with a low gain. Recommended value: between 10 and 20.

The post Sim Racing SRT P1 Seat Belt Tensioner appeared first on Lebois Racing.

3D printing consists of using a printer to create 3D objects.

The printer.

Let’s start with the printer. Multiple technologies exist, but at our level, we will use FDM printers (Fused Deposition Modeling): we deposit layers of molten plastic. The plastic is melted by a mobile head which layer after layer makes our 3D model “appear”. See our guide for the most popular models.

The plastic.

The plastic? Mostly PLA (although ABS and PETG are quite common). It’s easy to work with and very affordable: about 20€/kg. To give you an idea, the SRT box, which is a very substantial project, requires about 1.3kg of plastic, or about 26€. See our guide to different PLAs.

The 3D files.

You can design 3D files to print yourself, using software like Freecad (free), SolidWords, Fusion360. It is a long learning process. However with time you will be able to draw more and more complex parts, faster and faster. For the record, I started 3D drafting with this simple engineering advice, “draw your parts as you would have machined them.”

You can also directly download files to print (the 3D equivalent of .pdf). The most common formats are .stl or .obj, on sites like Thingiverse, Cults3D…Some files are free, others are not. In my experience, you will always find a free project for what you are looking for. STL is not an editable format, you will have a lot of trouble to modify the dimensions.

The Slicer: the software that sends 3D files to the printer!

Once you have your file, you need to use a “slicer”, which is the software that will allow you to convert the 3D file specifically for your printer (a bit like the driver of a 3D printer). I recommend using Cura. In particular, we will determine the printing direction (which side will be in contact with the printer’s plate) and what the fill rate will be. Indeed, most printed parts will be almost hollow, which makes 3D printing particularly economical.

The file is then transferred from the slicer to the 3D printer (by cable, SD card, wifi, etc.), and off you go. 3D printers often require adjustments and maintenance. For example, you need to make sure that the platen is perfectly flat in relation to the nozzle.

We finally have our 3D object that “appears” in front of our eyes!

The post 3D explained in 3 minutes ! appeared first on Lebois Racing.

The 3D files are available in 2 versions: a large plate version (>22cm x 22cm), and a small plate version (<22cm x 22cm, like the Ender 3).

Summary

1. Shopping list
2. Wiring
3. 3D files

1) Shopping list

• DIN7991 : 5 x M4x10
• DIN7991 : 8 x M4x35
• DIN7991 : 3 x M5x45 (ou plus)
• 6 écrous M4
• PCB custom (Aliexpress)
• Carte Simucube Wireless
• 11 x Boutons 12mm (Electroseed, Aliexpress)
• 3 interrupteurs TS127SZQ2 (Electroseed)
• 2 encodeurs rotatifs CTS 288V232F161B2 (prendre cette référence uniquement !) (Electroseed)
• 4 rangées de connecteurs 8 pins (Aliexpress)
• Connecteurs JST (Amazon, Aliexpress)
• Fils 24 AWG (Aliexpress, Amazon)
• Une pile CR123A (Amazon, Aliexpress)
• Un support de batterie (Amazon, Aliexpress)
• Une paire de palettes magnétiques

Pour les stickers, merci de contacter AllStickers (contact@allstickers.fr), et demandez le set de stickers pour le Ferrari Lebois Racing.

2) Wiring

3) 3D files

All the 3D files are available in this archive : V1.0

The post Ferrari 488 GT3 steering wheel for Simucube appeared first on Lebois Racing.

Want to support this project ? https://www.paypal.me/leboisVR?locale.x=en

Summary:

1) Presentation

2) Shopping list

3) Building instructions

1) Presentation

3D files are available here.

2) Shopping list

– 2 switchs KW11-3Z

– PLA (Sunlu)

– 4 DIN912 M2x10mm (Aliexpress)

– 4 DIN7991 M3x16mm with nut and washers (Aliexpress)

– 4 Vis DIN7991 M4x15mm

– 2 Vis DIN912 M5x30mm

– 4 M4 nuts

– 4 or 6 magnets 12x3mm (Amazon, Aliexpress)

– 4 bearings 695ZZ 5x13x4 (Aliexpress)

3) Building instructions

à venir

The post SRT Paddle Shifter V2 appeared first on Lebois Racing.